Recession-friendly fusion at Yaku
By: Jeff Dufour
Examiner Columnist
February 17, 2009
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| Yaku, which blends Peruvian and Chinese cuisine, has a spacious decor complete with floor-to-ceiling glass. -- Examiner |
ARLINGTON — For his eighth property, local restaurateur Mauricio Fraga-Rosenfeld looked to his home. A native of South America, he wanted Yaku (which means "water" in the Incan language) to reflect the fusion of Chinese and Peruvian cuisine developed by Chinese immigrants to Peru in the late 19th and early 20th centuries.
The Scene: Design is always a big deal to Fraga-Rosenfeld, and this space may be his most dramatic. Tucked into the lower level of the uber-luxe Odyssey condo building, floor-to-ceiling glass dominates the two-level space. The room is largely monochromatic, but specially commissioned paintings of the indigenous peoples of Ecuador add a splash of color, as do the movies — of late including "Finding Nemo" and "Shrek" — playing behind the bar. Some low lounge couches and a communal table provide additional seating options. Management expects to open the large front patio for service in spring.
The Pour: The wine list is modest in scope but also modestly priced. The wines by the glass have a little something for everyone. But the real creativity here is in the cocktails. My favorite: the "Amor Prohibito," made with citrus and jalapeños.
The Taste: Soon after opening Yaku last fall, Fraga-Rosenfeld realized he couldn't eat there too often — the food was too heavy. So he set about remaking the menu to include lower-fat, non-fried items. The commitment is evident in dishes like lettuce wraps with tofu and stir-fried veggies, and the delicious steamed duck roll, wrapped burrito style with vegetables and hoisin sauce. Ceviche gets an interesting twist by being marinated, then flash-fried. Nowhere is the fusion more evident than in the Novo-Andine wontons, in which the traditional Chinese dumplings are filled with chicken and quinoa, the South American grain. Compared to the fun appetizers, I had less luck with entrees, which were often unremarkable, if unobjectionable. The best of the bunch were the lomo saltado, the traditional Peruvian dish of beef, potatoes and onions; and the cashew-crusted mahi-mahi, glazed with a soy-pineapple sauce and served over fried rice.
The Touch: Service here is engaging, polite and capable. Trust the staff with menu recommendations.
Don't Miss: The banana rolls, fried crispy and served with coconut ice cream — the house's best dessert.
Why You Won't Go: Because it can be awfully loud inside, as all the glass, steel and concrete reflects and magnifies every word.
Why You Will Go: For happy hour, which lasts from 5 to 7:30 p.m. on weekdays. In addition to drink specials, dim sum appetizers are buy one, get one free.
If you go
Yaku
2001 N. 15th St.
Arlington
(703) 248-0844
latinconcepts.com
Hours: 5 p.m. to 1:30 a.m. daily
Prices: Appetizers and dim sum $6 to $11; entrees $14 to $17
Bottom Line: In this quiet corner of Clarendon Boulevard, the dramatic space belies the recession-friendly prices.
