Clark sticks to the classics at The General Store
By: Jeff Dufour
Editor at Large/Columnist, "Yeas & Nays"
March 17, 2009
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Patrons of The General Store in Silver Spring order their dinner
at the front counter. (Matthew A. Roth / For The Examiner)
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SILVER SPRING — Fans of chef Gillian Clark’s Colorado Kitchen were dismayed when the eatery abruptly closed last year, and began awaiting her latest venture with bated breath, and with memories of Clark’s Southern-inspired cuisine still fresh.
Well, their wait is over, as Clark and partner Robin Smith have decamped a few miles north to a charming old storefront in Silver Spring. At The General Store, you’ll find Clark writing a new chapter as a short-order cook — the latest in the area’s proliferation of “fast-casual” restaurants.
The Scene: Walls here are simple shades of blue and yellow, adorned with vintage ads and antiques. The Morton’s salt girl and Mr. Peanut both make an appearance, as do Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid in reproduction wanted posters. A stuffed bear sits atop an antique nickelodeon beside the door.
The Pour: It doesn’t get much simpler than this: a collection of gourmet sodas (Boylan’s and Nehi, primarily) and a few bottled beers (Blue Moon, Smithwick’s, Newcastle, Clipper City, Red Stripe).
The Taste: On two late nights that I visited, Clark and crew had already run out of fried chicken for the day. And with good reason. These tender, juicy birds are soaked in buttermilk and garlic before being fried crispy. The bacon-rich collard greens and cornbread on the side will have you dreaming of the Low Country. Another standout are the fish tacos, fried golden and served with shaved radishes and a fresh, zesty guacamole that sets the standard for avocados everywhere. Clark makes her hot dog with expensive Wagyu beef, then adorns it with peppers, onions and whole-grain mustard. The crispy shrimp on baguette evokes the classic po’ boy, while green bean casserole and shepherd’s pie will keep comfort food aficionados happy. Not everything rises to their level, however. Beef stew was merely OK, while a root vegetable cobbler was dense and leaden. And the cupcakes for dessert don’t stand up to their firm competition around the metro area these days.
The Touch: The staff here spends most of its time behind the counter, but the service is better and more extensive than at most fast-food joints. They’re happy to wipe down your table, run your food out to you and even get you a drink refill if there’s time.
Don’t Miss: The sinful mac and cheese — huge noodles, and rich cheese sauce with an unexpected lift from onion and crumbles of corn bread.
Why You Won’t Go: Although it’s “fast casual,” the grub can be relatively pricey here. A sandwich by itself can be as little as $7,
but up your order to fried chicken and throw in a drink and a cupcake for dessert, and you can be out $20 per person or more.
Why You Will Go: Downstairs, Clark and Smith are working on a related concept, a pub called the Post Office Tavern that they hope to have open within weeks.
If you go
The General Store
6 Post Office Road, Silver Spring
301-562-8787
Hours: 8 a.m. to 9 p.m. Tuesday to Friday; 1:30 to 10 p.m. Saturday and Sunday
Prices: Soups and sandwiches $4 to $12; casseroles and chicken $4 to $12.50
Bottom Line: A charming new “fast-casual” eatery by renowned local chef Gillian Clark
