The Vine Guy: The special delivery wines of Henry's Drive
By: Scott Greenberg
The Vine Guy
October 1, 2009
|
| Pillar Box Red (Courtesy Photo) |
What's in a name? Evidently, if you're Kim and Mark Longbottom, a remarkable line of wines whose names all are derived from a long honored pastime: mail delivery.
The winery's identity, Henry's Drive, takes its name from the 19th century mail coach delivery service that once ran through the Longbottom's property. Kim, who evidently loves a good play on words, branded the different wines in their portfolio based on the postal theme, including Dead Letter Office, Pillar Box (a nod to the free-standing letter boxes found throughout Great Britain) and the newest line, Morse Code.
The Longbottoms carried the postal theme onto their labels as well, using sepia tones for the Henry's Drive Shiraz and Reserve Shiraz label to depict a stagecoach traveling the Henry's Drive Trail. The labels for the Pillar Box wines feature the front of a modern Pillar Box -- complete with bright red enamel color and mail slot. And the new Morse Code value-priced varietal wines sport a label with dots and dashes on the front -- a tribute to the forerunner of today's digital communication age.
Located in the long-ago sea-covered Padthaway region in the southeast end of South Australia, Henry's Drive takes full advantage of the abundant underground water system as well as the Limestone Coast's rich, red loamy soil and sandy ridges that run parallel to the actual seacoast, some 50 miles to the west. The dependable winter rains and mild, sunny summers also contribute to the ideal grape-growing conditions. In 1992, the Longbottoms began planting syrah (called shiraz in Australia), cabernet sauvignon, merlot, chardonnay, sauvignon blanc and verdelho grape vines. Four years later, they released their first wine. Today, Mark and Kim have more than 500 acres of vineyards planted throughout Padthaway as well as a 30-acre shiraz parcel -- purchased in 2004 -- in the McLaren Vale region.
Henry's Drive is a family-owned business that has been operated predominantly by women since its inception, so it was only natural when the former winemaker, Kim Jackson, became pregnant and was preparing to depart the winery to begin a family, that Kim Longbottom selected another woman to take over the position. Since January 2008, Renae Hirsch has been heading up the winemaking operations for the entire collection, from the high-end eponymous Henry's Drive shiraz to the widely successful value-oriented Pillar Box and Morse Code series. And while the names on the outside of the bottles are cute, the wines inside the bottles are serious-yet-fun to drink. Retail prices are approximate.
2009 Henry's Drive Morse Code Chardonnay, Padthaway, Australia ($9)
A judicious use of French oak and malo-lactic fermentation (a secondary fermentation that imparts a creamy texture) produces a great chardonnay for the money. Fresh flavors of Myer lemon, nectarine and green melon zip across the palate. Hints of toasted oak and roasted nuts combine on the crisp, clean long finish.
2008 Henry's Drive Morse Code Shiraz, Padthaway, Australia ($9)
This shiraz is mostly unoaked which allows the bright fruit characteristics of dark cherries, blueberries and dark strawberries to shine through on the palate. While not overly complicated, the wine is well balanced and made more interesting with the subtle notes of black licorice, pepper and mint on the medium finish.
2008 Henry's Drive Pillar Box Red, Padthaway, Australia ($12)
A blend of shiraz, cabernet sauvignon and merlot produces a wine with lovely scents of dark plum, black cherry and toasty cedar on the nose. The palate is sumptuous, with notes of blackberry, blueberry compote and cocoa. The supple finish lingers with hints of clove, dark chocolate and a touch of vanilla.
2006 Henry's Drive Dead Letter Office Shiraz, Padthaway/McLaren Vale, Australia ($27)
Fruit from dual regions produces a wine laden with layers of mouth-filling fruit, including dark plum, dark cherries and raspberry jam. The well-structured finish is bolster by sweet tannins that keep the flavors of warm chocolate, roasted coffee and mint poised on the palate for a long, long time.
2007 Henry's Drive Shiraz, Padthaway, Australia ($35)
Crafted from 13 year-old vines and aged in a combination of new and used oak for 16 months, this wine is bursting with scents of blackberry, plums, dark chocolate and licorice on the bouquet. An earthy core supports flavors of jammy blackberry, plum, cocoa and licorice over the entire palate. Notes of toasty oak and black pepper dominate the full, lush finish.
2005 Henry's Drive Reserve Shiraz, Padthaway, Australia ($50)
The best fruit from the estate is used to produce a wine that is at once elegant and powerful, with a bouquet presenting classic Padthaway scents of blackberry fruit, eucalyptus, mint and pepper. The iron-fist-in-a-velvet-glove structure boasts deep, round flavors of blackberry jam, blueberry liqueur, cinnamon and vanilla. Notes of mocha and cigar box slide in on the back of the palate where they are joined by hints of black pepper on the long, rich finish.
Follow The Examiner
