For me, the daylight saving adage should be “spring forward to white wine, fall back to red wine.” This is the time of year when my palate begins its migration from bright whites to cool reds. I am referring most, of course, to pinot noir.

Pinot noir is it is a persnickety varietal, thin-skinned, temperamental and difficult to cultivate. When there is too much rain, the grapes become swollen, diluting the flavors. When there is too much sun, the delicate skins can burn and blister, which can destroy an entire crop. But when all goes well, the payoff can be immensely rewarding.