Refuge: Great pastrami on the Peninsula

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The Belgian beer craze has hit the Peninsula at The Refuge, a deli and pub that features the oddest conglomeration of food and drink I have encountered in 35 years of covering restaurants. Frenchwines, Belgian ales and pastrami sandwiches — the most voluptuous, velvety, meltingly tender, luscious pastrami I’ve ever tasted — all share top billing.

The pastrami recipe was developed by trial and error by Refuge chefs and partners Matt Levin and Michael Greuel, who met in the kitchens of Viognier at the high-end Draeger’s market in San Mateo.

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