When you visit one of D.C.’s newer exotic haunts, you’ll feel wrapped up in a transforming Asian experience, from decor to food. You get that any inspired decorator can devise the Buddhist trappings, but you may be surprised to learn Buddha-Bar’s intrepid chef does not come from Hong Kong or other points East. He’s not even Asian, and perhaps that may be the most surprising.
Gregg Fortunato, the restaurant’s 31-year-old executive chef, has Italian roots and hails from Las Vegas. How does it happen that he cooks up an Asian storm?
“I’ve been doing Asian-fusion food for a long time,” Fortunato said, admitting his first restaurant job in Las Vegas was working in an Italian restaurant. Prior to that, Fortunato worked at Pizza Hut and then made sandwiches and delivered them by scooter.
Hailing from a family that cooked a lot — “I used to cook with my parents when I was a youngster,” he said — it’s no surprise Fortunato takes to the culinary life so readily. In fact, what is surprising is he is totally self-taught: “I liked reading cookbooks and watching the Food Network,” he said. “That’s all I’ve ever done. I never went to culinary school. I did it all on my own. [Cooking] is the only job I’ve ever had.”
After working in the Italian restaurant, where he became adept at making pastries, Fortunato moved to a renowned Asian-fusion restaurant Roy’s Hawaiian Fusion, where he served as the executive sous chef and made pastries. Later he moved on to open two restaurants for Roy Yamaguchi and then served as the executive chef at Jia in Biloxi, Miss.
Even with such Asian-food familiarity, how does a young Italian man become so adept at working with Asian flavors and ingredients?
“I’ve never traveled to Asia,” he said, “but when I got to Roy’s, I found different flavors and ingredients I’d never worked with before. Ten years ago, Asian fusion wasn’t even really around. It’s French techniques plus Asian ingredients.”
In the kitchen, it seems, experience really counts.
Working with a menu that focuses on seafood, much of which is flown in fresh daily, Fortunato said he gets his inspiration from cookbooks, television shows and just about anything he sees.
“I am also influenced by foods I like,” he said, “though I don’t incorporate anything Italian into it. Some chefs do that, but I am not that far yet. I do Japanese cooking with its precise presentation. … It’s foods I like but with an Asian twist.”
If you are an Asiaphile, you will surely find a menu with some striking Asian-inspired fare, from the obvious sushi and sashimi offerings to a Japanese bento box with lamb curry, or a tasting menu that could star a Thai curry. Very inventive and exuding exotic flavors.
Q&A with chef Gregg Fortunato
What is your comfort food?
Pizza. I can eat pizza all day every day.
What is your favorite dessert?
I am more of a coffee and donuts person. I love that.
Where is your favorite place in the world?
Disney World. It’s a little world, an escape. I need to go back.
Which is your favorite cuisine?
Japanese. I’d love to go to Japan. But my favorite cookbook is not Japanese, it’s “El Bulli.” I want to play with molecular gastronomy.
Who is your favorite chef?
Thomas Keller. He’s great. And [Masaharu] Morimoto. He’s probably my favorite for Japanese food.
From the Chef’s Kitchen
Tempura Rock Shrimp
Serves 1 to 2
8 oz. rock shrimp, shelled and deveined
1 cup tempura batter
2 oz. cornstarch
Vegetable oil for frying
Bibb lettuce leaves for serving
Black sesame seeds for garnish
2 Tbsp. chopped chives for garnish
Sweet Chili Aioli Sauce
1 cup mayonnaise
3 Tbsp. sweet Thai chili sauce
1/4 cup fresh lime juice
2 Tbsp. Thai sriracha sauce
To make the sauce, combine all the ingredients and refrigerate until ready to use. Combine the cornstarch and tempura batter. Dredge the shrimp in this mixture, and heat the oil in a large wok over medium heat. Fry the shrimp for 2 to 3 minutes, and toss in the sauce.
Arrange the shrimp on the lettuce leaves, and garnish with the sesame seeds and chives.
