Itoya, a store entirely dedicated to the craft of writing by hand, comprises 12 sunlit stories of retail space in the heart of Tokyo’s Ginza shopping district. It sells fountain pens, boutique colored pencils, and ink markers in a rainbow of colors for writing on a thousand varieties of paper ranging from simple Post-Its to imperially bespoke linen. It’s not the sort of thing you’d expect to draw a capacity crowd in 2025. Haven’t we all gone digital? Don’t we take notes on our phones and do our correspondence via keyboard?