DOUBLING GAP, Pennsylvania — This is where the magic happens.

The elegant White Sulphur Hotel still sits along the top of the Blue Mountain ridge; its formidable presence in the thicket of the southern edge of the Tuscarora State Forest is just as much a delightful surprise today to summer campers arriving to experience sleepover camp as it was to 19th-century elites coming to partake in the healing powers of the springs in luxurious surroundings tucked away in the Appalachian Mountains.