Mexico DF serves soulful, simple fare

The carnitas at Mexico DF looked dry and uninviting, but I picked up a small dark brown hunk of this pork — long cooked in its own fat — and popped it in my mouth. I should have guessed how chef David Rosales’ carnitas would burst open between my teeth, releasing an explosion of pure pork flavor captured in a crackling crisp crust. Its interior was greaseless, moist, lubriciously tender.

When wrapped in a small, hot, freshly made corn tortilla and drizzled with one of three haunting hand-crushed salsas and maybe a spoonful of warm cactus and chayote salad ($5), well, I challenge anyone to find a better mouthful in the Bay Area.