Hoop Earrings: The Latest Target of Cultural Appropriation

It costs a bundle to attend Pitzer College, an elite liberal-arts institution in Claremont, California, that used to be a women’s college and still skews female (57 percent of its 1,000 or so students). Tuition and fees alone are $48,670 a year, and when you throw in room and board, the price jumps to $65,880.

So it was surprising to read that Pitzer actually houses an “oppressed group” of women students—how oppressed can you be at a $66,000-a-year college that’s consistently near the top in the U.S. News ratings? The “oppressed group,” apparently all Latinas, is complaining that a “privileged group” of women students, that is to say, whites, have committed the sin of “cultural appropriation” by wearing—get this—hoop earrings. (The phrases “oppressed group” and “privileged group” come from an Inside Higher Education article) about the appropriated hoops.

First, an anonymous but probably Latina student wrote this in huge letters on a Pitzer dorm’s free-speech wall: “White girl, take off your hoops!!!”

Then, according to the Claremont Independent, the conservative student newspaper for the five Claremont colleges:

Alegria Martinez (PZ ’18)—a Pitzer College Resident Assistant (RA) and active member of the “Latinx Student Union”—responded in an email thread sent to the entire student body: “[T]he art was created by myself and a few other WOC [women of color] after being tired and annoyed with the reoccuring [sic] theme of white women appropriating styles … that belong to the black and brown folks who created the culture. The culture actually comes from a historical background of oppression and exclusion. The black and brown bodies who typically wear hooped earrings, (and other accessories like winged eyeliner, gold name plate necklaces, etc) are typically viewed as ghetto, and are not taken seriously by others in their daily lives. Because of this, I see our winged eyeliner, lined lips, and big hoop earrings serving as symbols [and] as an everyday act of resistance, especially here at the Claremont Colleges. Meanwhile we wonder, why should white girls be able to take part in this culture (wearing hoop earrings just being one case of it) and be seen as cute/aesthetic/ethnic. White people have actually exploited the culture and made it into fashion.” Jacquelyn Aguilera (PZ ’19), another student claiming credit for the spray-painted message, responded to the school-wide email thread, “If you didn’t create the culture as a coping mechanism for marginalization, take off those hoops, if your feminism isn’t intersectional take off those hoops, if you try to wear mi cultura when the creators can no longer afford it, take off those hoops, if you are incapable of using a search engine and expect other people to educate you, take off those hoops, if you can’t pronounce my name or spell it … take off those hoops…

The Claremont Independent then got into trouble with Pitzer for daring to cover the hoops controversy, which, as might be expected, generated quite a bit of nationwide ridicule of the earring-sensitive. Pitzer’s president, Melvin L. Oliver, issued an open letter titled “Hate Speech Is Not Free Speech.” condemning “a cycle of violent hate speech that threatens the safety and well-being of every member of our community.” According to Inside Higher Ed:

[T]he three Latina students who responded to the all-campus emails started to receive hostile email messages, which the college believes are from people not connected to Pitzer or the other Claremont Colleges. Some of the messages college officials have reviewed appear to go beyond criticism, to harassment and threats, including a message with an individual pointing a gun.

So it was all that pesky Claremont Independent‘s fault. We can’t have anyone making fun of outrage over jewelry choices.

I myself started to wonder how it could be that hoop earrings, sold everywhere in America—and worn by women everywhere in America—could be considered such an integral part of a specific ethnic culture that wearing them amounted to appropriation. It turned out that even the oh-so-politically correct Bustle had trouble with that one, too. Admonishing white women never to so much as look at a pair of hoops, Bustle writer JR Thorpe admitted:

This is trickier, as it’s not part of an established culture or religion, but the look of a very particular subset of society—which does not appreciate being made into weird “fashion symbols” while the reality of their lives is neglected. Chola culture, which involves pronounced eyebrows, lined lips, and a distinctive fashion sense, emerged in Mexican-Americans communities in the ’80s and ’90s, and was a defiant statement of identity in a very racially charged environment.

Vice writer Barbara Calderon-Douglass, in an article a couple of years go, elaborated:

Growing up in the 90s on the Southside of Houston I watched my older sister Lynda set the chola beauty standard. She lined her lips with berry-colored lipliner, plucked her eyebrows thin, and teased her permed hair with Aquanet hairspray, creating a stiff asymmetrical bang wave with a height capable of competing with all the homegirls in the neighborhood.

Chola culture! We had that when I was growing up in Southern California—except that then it was called looking “cheap”—and it was scarcely confined to particular ethnic groups. We college-bound girls dressed preppy in prim dresses, monogrammed sweaters, and loafers, and we wore our hair demure and short. The non-college-bound wore tight skirts, alluring white shoes called “bunnies” that sold for about $3, Maybelline eye makeup by the bucketful, and elaborate teased hairdos, plus earrings dangling to their shoulders. Frankly, the “cheap” girls looked about ten times as attractive as us preppies and had about ten times as many boyfriends. I envied them and I secretly wanted to look just like them.

Indeed, the archetypal 1950s “cheap girl” wasn’t a Latina at all. She was Wanda Jackson, the Oklahoma rockabilly star from whom Elvis Presley borrowed his first songs. Jackson, gorgeous with her black eyebrows and huge head of permed black hair, regularly performed in tight dresses and, yes, oversize hoop earrings. So when militant college Latinas talk about “cultural appropriation,” I have to wonder who appropriated what from whom.

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