Please pass (on) the Ketchup

Star power doesn’t always translate to substance. American moviegoers learn that lesson over and over on the big screen. And now local diners can learn the same lesson on their plates at the new Ketchup in National Harbor.

Part of a larger restaurant company called the Dolce Group, Ketchup is the third eatery under that name, the others located in Los Angeles and Huntsville, Ala. Thanks to the L.A. outpost’s solid reputation — to say nothing of the chain’s celebrity investors, who include Ashton Kutcher, Wilmer Valderrama and Tara Reid — I was hoping Ketchup would stand out in what, so far, has been a rather bleak dining scene at National Harbor. My hopes were thwarted yet again.

The Scene: The color scheme in this high-ceilinged space looks like a White Stripes album cover: all black, red and white. Acrylic furniture in the lounge, pop art embedded into the tables and playful paintings of ketchup, fries and hot dogs add to the mod atmosphere.

The Pour: The usual complement of specialty cocktails comes along with a rather attractive, well-priced wine list. Too bad it’s little more than a tease. On my last visit, our first three choices weren’t available. “We’re still developing our wine list,” the waiter confessed. Out of several dozen bottles on the list, he said, only the ones highlighted in red were actually available. Which begs the question: Then why list them all?!?!

The Taste: Let’s start with the restaurant’s namesake. A display of seven ketchups, from maple to raspberry to chipotle, were fun and unique. But the trio of fries that came along — parmesan, sweet potato and Old Bay — were cut too thick, underdone and pale. A delightful Kobe beef hot dog with Kobe chili got lost in a big, boring bun. Bacon-wrapped bay scallops, a chef’s recommendation on the menu, featured overcooked scallops and undercooked bacon. Maryland crab cakes, however, are solid enough, and a big cowboy rib-eye surprised me with its combination of flavor and tenderness.

The Touch: Here’s where things really start to come apart. Our water glasses sat upside down on our table, unfilled, for half the meal. No sharing plates were offered for shared appetizers. Wine service showed a lack of training, as one server grabbed our wine glasses, turned his back to us and filled them both nearly to the brim before returning them. And the timing of courses was consistently off, with some items flying out of the kitchen, while others were delayed almost interminably.

Don’t Miss: The side dishes. Grilled fresh asparagus gets paired with shaved parmesan, while green beans are crusted in parmesan and garlic. The three variations on mac and cheese, creamy and rich, are some of the best I’ve tasted locally. Jalape–o and cherrywood-smoked bacon can hold their own, but the pick is the lobster mac and cheese — American, white cheddar and gorgonzola cheeses with shell pasta and tiny chunks of Maine lobster.

Why You Won’t Go: Because they might be closed. One recent evening, I was going to one of National Harbor’s sunset concerts, and wanted to stop by Ketchup afterward. When I called, the hostess said they’d be open until 11 p.m. But when I arrived at 10:15, the greeter informed us they were already shut down for the night.

Why You Will Go: Until the kitchen and the management tightens up the ship, I can’t think of a reason.