The dictionary defines the word “apex” as “vertex: the highest point (of something); at the peak of the pyramid. Top.” Not a bad description if you’re an entrepreneur determined to make quality wine from Washington state, literally at the “top” of the Pacific Northwest. This was Apex Cellars President Harry Alhadeff’s aspiration when he decided to shift gears from wine merchant to wine producer almost two decades ago. Today, his vision is bearing fruit.
Apex Cellars (www.apexcellars.com) has been around since 1988 — founded originally as Washington Hills Cellars — when Harry and winemaker Brian Carter decided to blend their respective and complementary wine industry skills.
Harry’s contribution included his many years of experience in the business side of the industry, particularly in the retail and distribution end. Early in his career, Harry concentrated on retail as an owner of wine shops and restaurants in Washington state. The focus of his mid-career years shifted to the import and wholesale distribution side of the business.
Saving the best for last, Harry turned his attention to wine production at Apex Cellars.
Winemaker Brian Carter began making wine at age 14 and hasn’t stopped since. He studied enology at UC Davis and subsequently sharpened his craft working at Mount Eden Vineyard and Chateau Montelena, two venerable California wineries. In 1980, he moved on to Paul Thomas Winery in Washington state, where he received numerous awards including twice being named Winemaker of the Year by an area magazine. Eight years after joining Paul Thomas Winery, Brian left to become a consulting winemaker. That’s when he bumped into Harry and a beautiful partnership was born.
Apex Cellars’ motto, as seen on its Web site, is “to produce a limited quantity of reserve-caliber wines so special and so outstanding that they represent the ultimate in winemaking.” To accomplish this daunting task, they not only use their own grapes from Outlook Vineyard, but also contract for grapes throughout Washington to blend an exceptional wine with character and complexity using “classic techniques and minimal intervention.”
The winery makes several different cuvees: Bridgman, Apex II and Apex. Bridgman is their entry-level wine and is named in honor of one of the founding fathers of the Washington State wine. Their “second” label, if you will, is Apex II, made from the barrels and grapes that were not selected for the final blend for the premiere bottling. The topflight Apex wines are produced in small volume using predominantly French oak barrels and grapes from selected blocks.
Here are the Apex wines that climbed to the top of my tongue. Retail prices are approximate and all wines can be found at Schneider’s of Capitol Hill in Washington.
2005 Apex Chardonnay, Yakima Valley ($15)
Creamy lemon scents mingle with floral notes and hints of brioche on the pretty nose. Approachable flavors of ripe apples and pineapple on well-textured frame with almond accents on the soft finish. As Harry says, “smells good, tastes good.” I think it tastes great??? with lobster bouillabaisse.
2001 Apex Merlot, Columbia Valley ($24)
Attention-grabbing nose of red cherry, raspberry, chocolate and cinnamon that carry over onto the palate where notes of plums and vanilla join the party. The sweet tannins and firm structure provide weight to the smooth, pleasant finish. A winner with roasted squab.
2001 Apex “Outlook Vineyard” Syrah, Columbia Valley ($40)
Prominent notes of black plums, vanilla and pepper spring from the glass. The solid tannins and abundant acidity keep the powerful black raspberries, plums and mocha flavors in check while the commanding finish features traditional black pepper spices. Try pepper-crusted seared tuna for an unorthodox but impressive pairing.
2000 Apex “Klipsun Vineyard” Cabernet Sauvignon, Red Mountain ($48)
This cabernet is at its “peak” performance, featuring a seductive nose of chocolate, cassis liqueur and black cherry. Full, meaty flavors of blackberry, black raspberry jam and smoky meats cover the palate. The “cigar box” finish almost demands a sirloin steak, medium-rare.
2004 Apex “Outlook Vineyard” Late Harvest Gewürztraminer, Yakima Valley ($32)
The grapes in this ice wine are actually part of the 2003 vintage, but since it did not get cold enough to pick the grapes until January 2004, the bottle reflects the harvest date. Honeysuckle, apricots and honeyed orange rind seduce the nose and keep peach and pear nectar notes plenty of company on the unctuous, sinfully silky finish. A perfect ending with a pear tart.
Do you have a favorite royalty of wine? E-mail [email protected].
