When you first enter Penn Quarter’s Jaleo, you’ll see crowds, staff and plenty of food. But chances are you will not see Ramon Martinez, the ebullient young chef who rules over Jaleo’s kitchen, because he is busily cooking. In fact, Martinez gets to work in tandem with his boss, Jose Andr?s, and help control food quality in all three Jaleos (Crystal City, D.C. and Bethesda). A lifelong passion for cooking launched him. “This comes from my grandmother and mother,” he said, recalling how after school each day in Terrassa, Spain he would anticipate enjoying his mother’s fresh escudella, a Catalan stew with chicken, ham and sausages. “I remember my mom making this every day.”
Martinez said that even his dad’s love of food helped inspire him. “My dad loves fancy foods,” he said, “so he cooked for guests. He has all the kitchen tools. He learned from what he watches others do. So my Mom cooked normal dishes; my Dad, fancy ones.”
| If you go |
| Jaleo |
| Where: 480 7th St. NW |
| Info: 202-628-7949 |
| Hours: Tues. to Thurs., 11:30 a.m. to 11:30 p.m.; Fri., Sat., until midnight; Sun., Mon., 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m.; brunch Sat.-Sun., until 3 p.m. |
Because he was an indifferent student, his frustrated parents asked their teenaged son what he wanted to do in life. His answer: chef, of course. At the age of 16, he enrolled in culinary school in Spain. He spent five years as a student, and saw his exam grades improve greatly.
After graduation, Martinez spent several years cooking at various restaurants in Spain, including such destinations as Hacienda Benazuza, Ferran Adria’s restaurant located just outside of Seville; Joan Roca’s El celler de Can Roca; and Martin Berasategui’s eponymous restaurant in the Basque Country. He also worked several jobs at British restaurants in the UK.
But, as Martinez notes, his life changed dramatically after attending a chefs’ conference in San Sebastian in 2005, when he met Andr?s. Martinez remembers that he needed someone for the Crystal City Jaleo. “Although I was content that he asked me,” he said, “I said no. Afterwards, when I was back in Barcelona, I started thinking that maybe I should try it for a year.”
Since then, Martinez has moved from Crystal City to D.C.’s Jaleo. He and Andr?s work to develop and perfect tapas recpes. “I love to have as an excuse to have him to taste my food,” said Martinez. “Andr?s is here three to four times a week when he is in D.C.”
Since making that move, Martinez admits he is amazed at the number of doors that have opened for him. And just consider how many great meals he has enjoyed at Jaleo.
Q&A
What is your comfort food?
Toasted bread, rubbed with a tomato, spread with olive oil and topped with Serrano ham. All Catalans do this at home every day.
What is your favorite ingredient?
Extra virgin olive oil. No matter if I am saut?ing or whether I use it raw on bread. If saut?ing, olive oil is amazing, and not like other oils. I use it for everything.
What’s in your fridge?
Pineapples. I love them. Also onions, garlic, and a piece of a special sausage. Lots of fruit and green onions.
What has been your luckiest moment?
I worked in a place called Falset [Spain].. It was a small hostel and 2 grandmothers were really nice. We did traditional cooking, and I learned from the grandmothers, who taught me the importance of traditional food. They were amazing, and made the best croquetas in the world.
Which are your favorite restaurants?
2 Amys for pizza; Yechon for its seafood pancake, and Momofuku in New York.
Recipe
Cherry Gazpacho
Serves 4
1 pound red plum tomatoes, or red heirloom tomatoes
? pound red ripe cherries, pitted
1/2 green bell pepper, seeded
1 green onion
1 garlic clove
1/2 cup natural freshly squeezed orange juice
1/2 cup water
? teaspoon sugar
Sherry vinegar to taste
Salt to taste
1 cup extra virgin olive oil
toasted pistachios for garnish
crumbled goat cheese for garnish
snipped chives for garnish
olive oil for garnish
Put the tomatoes, cherries, bell pepper, onion, garlic, orange juice, water, sugar, sherry, and salt in a blender, and process thoroughly Add the oil, and continue processing until the mixture is emulsified. Refrigerate, and serve very cold. To serve, garnish the soup with toasted pistachios, goat cheese, chives, and olive oil.
