With his chiseled good looks — an English rugby player, perhaps? — Rodney Scruggs commands one of the city’s most historic and vaunted kitchens, that of the newly reopened The Occidental Restaurant. (First opened in 1906, The Occidental will celebrate its 100-year-old place in D.C. history with yearlong events, such as innovative wine programs.) Just scanning the political and personality photos on nearly every inch of wall space conveys volumes about the Occidental-as-destination. Secrets? Assignations? Celebrations?
Stepping into this position and into a kitchen in the vortex of D.C.’s power plays is a bit awe-inspiring, admits Scruggs. “I pinch myself every day when I drive onto Pennsylvania Avenue. and see the Willard Hotel and where all the presidents have come,” he says. “I’m on the grandest of stages. When I think of the magnitude, it instills a passion for The Occidental, just half a block from the White House.”
Now in command, Scruggs says that his new position is not his first in this kitchen, since The Occidental is where he began his culinary career nearly 20 years ago as a line cook. A graduate of a Massachusetts culinary school, Scruggs developed his interest in food during his teens, when he cooked for his siblings and his mother counseled him to take cooking classes in high school. “She told me that I should make cooking my life and career,” he says. “That way I would always have a job and never go hungry.” As it turns out, Scruggs has risen to unexpected heights, probably succeeding far beyond his mother’s wildest dreams.
Perhaps his biggest — and most thrilling — challenge is to structure the restaurant’s new menu, balancing it between the expected traditional fare and dishes that are more experimental. “I know that I have to serve crab cakes,” he says, “because this is a traditional American restaurant. But I also offer calamari with short ribs.” He remembers a colleague’s valuable tip: KISS, or “Keep it Simple, Scruggs.”
That has really helped me, he says, especially when he’s tempted to add another texture or flavor profile that would cost the dish its perfection.
We have a great lunch crowd, he continues, ticking off the hoped-for D.C. mix of Hill types, lawyers, industry moguls, and tourists. “A big seller,” he says, “is the Chicken Waldorf Salad,” which he has recreated from the restaurant’s original menu. Eager for feedback, Scruggs has listened as one patron asked for more lettuce with the salad, and as another said it needed more vegetables. “I listen to what people are saying,” he says. “I need to hear people’s opinions.” This, he says, will encourage people to feel welcome at the new Occidental.
As Scruggs and his staff work to put the Occidental back on D.C.’s must-go dining map, he says he wants the public to dine here. “We can offer them something special,” Scruggs says. “We have a brand new kitchen. … And we want to educate our patrons, explaining, for example, why our lobsters rolls are off the menu until spring” — lobsters are $30 a pound now, he adds. With his enthusiasm, it seems Scruggswill be playing to a full house.
In Scrugg’s own words
Who cooks at home? With our hours, we both work (Scruggs’ wife is a pastry chef) and have a daughter, so on Sundays we eat out, or if we eat at home, it’s something simple like steak, chili or chicken wings.
What is your favorite dish? Here, it’s the scallops with lentil stew and applewood-smoked bacon. There’s something so good about it. At home, when I can twist my wife’s arm, it’s her three-cheese, three-meat lasagna. I once had a dish in France that was so good it made me cry. It was a black truffle parfait.
Which ingredients do you need? I once had an old eccentric professor who asked me that, and I said, “money.” He said, “potatoes, onions, garlic.” And when you think about it, all restaurants have them.
Which is your favorite pan? A nonstick grill, a whisk and emulsion blenders. Plus, you have to have fire. I’m a “no gadgets” guy.
What is your comfort food? Barbecued chicken, a potato or pasta salad, and a chocolate cake with a peanut butter icing.
What’s in your fridge? Oh, gee. Not much. Lots of water, low-fat milk, some bags of salad mix. We both are around food all day.
Which is your favorite restaurant? Citronelle when Michel Richard is there. And Vidalia when R.J. is there.
What do you do in your leisure time? I’m a simple guy. I love listening to music; on many Sundays, I just get into the car, drive and listen to music. And getting together with close friends.
Peppercorn-Crusted Salmon
Serves 4
Fish
2 lbs. salmon fillets
5 peppercorns, enough to cover
3 tsp. grapeseed oil
Salt to taste
Salad
2 European cucumbers,peeled, seeded, halved, and julienned
4 tbsp. Pickled Ginger Julienne*
1 tbsp. black sesame seeds, toasted
1 tbsp. white sesame seeds, toasted
6 tbsp. rice wine vinegar
6 tbsp. chopped cilantro
* Available at specialty markets including Whole Foods
Mango Coulis
1 mango, peeled and seeded
1/2 cup fresh orange juice
To prepare the salmon, press the peppercorns into the fillets. Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Sear the fillets until cooked, and season with salt.
To prepare the salad, combine the ingredients together in a bowl and toss.
To prepare the mango coulis, blend the mango with the juice until thick.
Arrange the salad on four plates, and set a salmon fillet on each plate. Spoon the coulis over the salmon and around the salad. Serve.
