At the age of 23, Ardina Kievits holds one of the most unusual culinary jobs in the country: Kievits is a tea sommelier, responsible for sampling, recommending and pouring one of the Park Hyatt Washington’s 53 different teas and tisanes served in its unique Tea Cellar.
Rigorously trained at the Park Hyatt Chicago office by tea expert Rod Markus, president of MITEA, Holland native Kievits says she has become an ardent tea drinker herself, often selecting a pot of soothing chamomile at home after a long day of tea work.
Kievits has found that becoming a tea expert has been an interesting challenge, as she has had to learn all about teas in order to set up the Tea Cellar before the hotel reopened.
“We started from a basic 36 varieties,” she says. “Rod made up another list and said these must be included. I worked with Rod and completed other research to learn about their backgrounds.”
Her final selection now includes four white teas — these are very delicate and high in antioxidants, she says; a balance of Chinese and Japanese green teas; Oolong and black teas; vintage Pu-Erh teas; a variety of herbal tisanes including a beguilingly fragrant South of France Rooibos; and a 1985 Royal Reserve tea so rare — and expensive — that only 7 kilos remain for worldwide consumption. “The tea has been cave-aged for two years,” says Kievits. “We offer it at $300 a pot.”
Since the Tea Cellar opened in the fall, Kievits has found that people’s interest in tea is growing and that patrons often ask for a full discourse on tea.
“When we present our tea menu,” she says, “people are initially overwhelmed. I ask them about their preferences, and then I give them a tea explanation. They really want to know. For instance, I had a group of eight ladies who wanted a white-tea tasting, and afterwards they wanted to know about our other teas.”
If customers are ready to go beyond their customary teas, Kievits happily recommends several to try.
“The white teas are very popular,” she says, “but so are the black teas.” She adds that one gentleman came in asking for some Lipton’s tea — “I was so surprised,” she says — but he changed his order when he understood the variety of what was available.
After preparing each table with teacups, the sweeteners of honey and sugar, and napkins, Kievits is ready for the afternoon tea service.
“I never put cream on the table,” she says. “Sometimes people ask for it, and I suggest that they try the tea alone first to experience its flavor. There is only one tea on the menu that I like with cream or milk and sugar, it is the Royal Keemun Hoa Ya’a, a strong black tea known to be Queen Elizabeth’s favorite. The milk and sugar balance the strong flavor of the tea.”
Part of the enchantment of the service is its ritual: the pouring of hot water — each type of tea requires a different water temperature to maximize its flavor — into glass pitchers. This allows guests a chance to watch the swirling tea leaves as they cling to the glass and settle to the bottom.
But another part lies with the ample pastry buffet table, where for $12, guests can splurge on servings of four different pies, four different cakes, scones, cookies and madeleines, all prepared by hotel pastry chef Laurent Merdy.
Although tea is served all day long, the hotel holds its special afternoon tea from 2:30 to 4:30 p.m. Reservations are not generally required during the week, but Kievits recommends advance booking for weekends.
After sampling so many teas — there’s a big difference in flavors and aromas, she says — Kievits can now judge one tea variety from another and even deduce some years of growth from others, becoming in her way as accomplished as an oenophile. “Teas are all about the five senses,” she says.
The Tea Cellar offers canisters and smaller tubes of its teas for sale, prices varying depending on the variety selected. Tea drinkers can also order from www.mitea.com.
Honey Lemon Madeleines
Makes about 40
1 dozen eggs
1 cup granulated sugar
7/8 cup whole milk
1 cup honey
2 1/2 cups flour, sifted
1 tbsp. baking powder
Zest 2 lemons
2.5 cups melted butter
The madeleines are even better when the dough has been kept all night in the refrigerator prior to cooking.
Whip the eggs in a bowl. With a mixer or a plastic spatula, mix one by one sugar, millk, honey, sifted flour, baking powder and lemon zest into the eggs. Add the melted butter in three parts.
Pour the preparation into a greased madeleine mold and bake at 325 degree about 12 minutes, or until set and brown. Wait until the madeleines are warm to remove them.
Tea around town
Taking afternoon tea is a popular Washington pastime. Other destinations include the following:
» Four Seasons Hotel: Daily.
2800 Pennsylvania Ave. NW;
202-342-0444
» Henley Park Hotel: Daily.
926 Massachusetts Ave. NW;
202-638-5200
» Renaissance Mayflower:
Daily in the Café Promenade.
1127 Connecticut Ave. NW;
202-347-3000
» Washington National Cathedral: Tuesday and Wednesday
afternoons “tour and tea” by
reservation only. 202-537-6200
or www.visit.cathedral.org/tea
» Willard InterContinental Washington: Daily. 1401 Pennsylvania Ave. NW; 202-628-9100.
» The Bailiwick Inn: Tuesdays, Thursdays and Sundays.
4023 Chain Bridge Road, Fairfax; 703-691-2266.
» The Jefferson Hotel: Daily.
1200 16th St. NW; 202-347-2200
» The Ritz-Carlton Tysons
Corner: Daily. 1700 Tysons Blvd., McLean; 703-506-4300
» The Ritz-Carlton Washington DC: Monday through Saturday. 1150 22nd St. NW; 202-835-0500
» The Ritz-Carlton Pentagon City: Daily. 1250 S. Hayes St., Arlington; 703-415-5000
» The Ritz-Carlton Georgetown: Saturdays and Sundays. 3100 South St. NW; 202-912-4100
