So there I was, sitting at a table at a fabulous restaurant drinking some of the most sought-after wines in the country with not just the winemaker, Manfred Krankl, but also with the most influential wine critic in the world, Robert Parker Jr. For an oenophile such as myself, this is as close to heaven on Earth as it gets.
How this all came to pass actually began several years ago, when Cindy and I met Bill and Rebecca through a local wine tasting fundraiser. Bill and I became fast friends, first through wine, then through philanthropy. A few years later, we met Chet and Julie through our children and then eventually introduced the two couples to each other.
Fast forward to last summer, when Bill and Rebecca helped world-renowned wine critic Robert Parker and then writing partner Pierre Rovani create a charitable wine event of their own: The Wine Advocate Fund for Philanthropy. During the auction, Julie bid on — and won — an exclusive wine tasting with Manfred and Elaine Krankl, owners of Sine Qua Non (loosely translated from Latin, “an indispensable thing”) Winery in Ventura, Calif. As a bonus, Parker and Rovani elected to join us.
The Krankls flew out from their home near Santa Barbara with an impressive portfolio in tow. Their remarkable wines are made in such limited numbers and demand is so high that the waiting list for Sine Qua Non is remarkably long (the wines are offered directly from the winery on a highly allocated basis). The good news is that some of the wines are available at several area restaurants. Prices shown are based on the release price from the winery; they’re now substantially higher in today’s marketplace.
(Note: Because most of their wines are sourced from fruit located throughout central California and Oregon, the origin of the wines has been omitted in most instances.)
1996 Omadhaun & Poltroon, Roussanne/Chardonnay Blend, $36
Manfred and Elaine love to have a bit of fun with their labels; both the names and the design are unique to each wine they produce. This particular blend of roussanne and chardonnay takes its name from the Frank McCourt novel “Angela’s Ashes,” and is a reference to the Irish slang for dunce and imbecile. However, this wine, at just over 10 years old, is anything but slow. It’s A full-blown, rich white that feels big in the mouth, where copious amounts of white figs, butterscotch, pear and honeysuckle play over the entire palate. The noticeable acidity kept the focus on the fruit but did not get in the way of the long, unctuous finish.
2001 Albino Chardonnay/Roussanne/Viognier Blend, $65
The all-white label (the name of the wine is just slightly raised) is as playful as the wine. Exhibiting a nose of acacia, honeysuckle and lime, it’s fun just to sniff this wine. But don’t miss the wonderful notes of white peaches and pear tart that slide over the tongue on the way to a lovely finish, buoyed by an underlying smokiness.
2002 Whisperin’ E Roussanne/Viognier/Chardonnay Blend, $72
Manfred likes to play around with his blends from year to year, and this white wine, named for his wife and partner Elaine, features roussanne as the star. Scents of peaches, honeysuckle and brioche dominate the nose while peaches, nectarines and lychee nuts take center stage on the palate. The balance between fruit and acidity is evident on the long-but-fresh finish.
2002 Hollerin’ M Pinot Noir, from the Shea Vineyard, Oregon, $72
I wasn’t paying attention when I first put this wine in my mouth and I had to check the label to make sure someone hadn’t slipped a new-world merlot into my glass. This is a big pinot, where the fruit-forward flavors of plums, black cherries, wild strawberries and black raspberries carry substantial weight on the palate. The lush finish features a satiny glow of pure cherry fruit that lasted more than a minute. Hollerin’ indeed.
2003 Omega Pinot Noir from the Shea Vineyard, Oregon, $75
This is more pinot-like than its older brother, but still a very fruit-laden wine with loads of sweet black cherry, dark plums and raspberries on a juicy, luscious frame. The lengthy finish features a pleasant hint of black licorice to keep you guessing about the varietal.
1998 The Antagonists Grenache/Syrah Blend, $72
Complex and perfectly balanced, it features ripe, dark fruit on the nose and palate, including black plums, blackberry liqueur, juicy cherries and underlying hints of pepper. Just the slightest hint of vanilla sings at the back of the extravagant finish. Simply an extraordinary wine.
2000 Incognito Grenache, $85
With just a touch (5 percent) of viognier thrown in for balance, this is a big wine with big aromas of cherries, licorice and cassis. Massive amounts of black fruit, Asian spices and pepper coat the tongue like wallpaper, leaving behind an impression more than a finish — lasting well beyond a minute. Parker claims that this is “undeniably the greatest Grenache I have tasted from California.” Warning — a recent search for this wine put the price above $500 per bottle.
1998 E Raised Syrah, $72
A touch of viognier adds a pleasant floral quality to the captivating nose where scents of blackberries, licorice and toasted wood join in. Chewy flavors of blackberries, cherry cola, pepper and licorice are intertwined on a solid frame while notes of espresso sneak in on the lengthy yet supple finish.
2001 On Your Toes Syrah, $125
A rare treat — only 67 cases were produced of this blend of syrah from three vineyards in California. This wine simply knocked me over. Powerful aromas of blackberry liqueur, cassis, licorice and a hint of tar dominate the nose. In the mouth, the flavors come in waves of ripe black fruit, licorice and dark chocolate and build on each other in perfect balance until they crescendo on the amazingly long, deep finish.
2003 Papa Syrah, $95
Fruit from six different vineyards, including the Krankls’ own Eleven Confessions, was used in the final blend of this spectacular syrah. The nose showed brilliant notes of blackberry, cassis, violets and spicy pepper. Flavors of black plums, dark chocolate covered cherries and mint evolved on the palate like a fan dance, slowly revealing more and more, but leaving you wanting more. The rich, full finish was in perfect balance with just a hint of pepper to pay homage to the varietal.
And the highlight of the night? When Robert Parker tried to sneak a peek at my notes!
Do you have a favorite bottle of wine? E-mail me at [email protected].
