Every year at this time, many serious wine collectors, as well as casual consumers, buy more bottles of sparkling wines or Champagne to celebrate the holiday season with than they do throughout the rest of the year.
Unfortunately, other than to mark special occasions with the festive pop of the cork, sparkling wines seem to go mostly unnoticed. As a whole, the category of sparkling wines has been stereotyped as something only to be enjoyed during special birthdays, weddings or, as is currently the case, year-end celebrations.
Too bad, really, because sparkling wines are incredibly versatile. They pair well with a variety of food or can be enjoyed on their own.
Maybe the cold shoulder is due, in part, to traditional marketing strategies by the industry, which appears to only push bubbly wines during the holiday season, and part is just a lack of understanding by the consumer about how these wines fit into a diversified portfolio. And part of it might be due to the confusion over the types of sparkling wines that are available.
While just about every wine-growing region on the planet produces some version of sparkling wine, it is helpful to remember that only wines made in the tiny Champagne region in France — using the strict Methode Champenoise, where the secondary fermentation that gives the wine its fizz occurs in the bottle — can be called Champagne (as denoted by the capital “C” in the name). All other champagne-style wines are referred to as “sparkling wines.”
For example, the Prosecco region of Italy produces some wonderfully crisp, refreshing sparkling wines that make a great way to greet guests. These wines are made from the Prosecco grape using the Charmat Method where the secondary fermentation occurs in large tanks before the wine is bottled, keeping the fresh, delicate qualities of the grape intact. Many domestic sparkling wines — predominantly from California — are made in the Methode Champenoise style, and are even made with the same varietals (pinot noir, chardonnay and pinot meunier) as their French counterparts.
Regardless of the method or the country of origin, the most important quality to consider is the style or “dryness” of the wine. “Brut” wines are considered to be dry. But a Champagne or sparkling wine labeled “Extra Dry” is actually a little sweeter than Brut, and “Dry” is sweeter than Extra Dry. Lastly, “Extra Brut” is completely dry.
This week, I’ll point out a few of my favorite sparkling wines to enjoy over the holiday season. Next week, I’ll dive into Champagnes to pop open in time for New Year’s Eve — and all year long. Retail prices are approximate.
Martini & Rossi Asti, Veneto, Italy ($12)
Made from 100 percent handpicked Moscato Bianco grapes from the northern region of Italy, this slightly sweet bubbly is a perfect choice to pour your guests at the door on arrival. The fruit-driven bouquet of pear, peach and white floral notes are enticing. Juicy notes of pear, apple and peach have just enough natural sweetness to make the flavors stand out without being cloying. The finish is crisp and clean, thanks to the abundant acidity. Enjoy as an aperitif or with fruit-oriented desserts.
Bagrationi 1882 Non-Vintage Classic Extra Dry, Tbilisi, Georgia ($14)
If you want to try something completely unique — and delicious — pop open this delightful cuvee from the country of Georgia. Yes, I said Georgia — one of the oldest winegrowing regions in the world. Made from indigenous varietals of Chinebuli, Tsitska and Mtsvane using the Charmat Method, this wine is full of bright citrus, golden melon and ripe pear flavors. A great value for a complex sparkling wine.
2007 Bisol Prosecco di Valdobbiadene Crede Brut, Veneto, Italy ($16)
Crede refers to clay-based vineyards in Veneto that feature a layer of marine sandstone under the clay. Wines from this region have wonderful acidity and structure. Scents of lemon-lime fill the bouquet while flavors of apple and nectarine dominate the front of the palate. The crisp, refreshing finish features citrus notes and just a hint of pear and yeast at the very end.
2007 Cupcake Vineyards Non-Vintage Brut Rose, France ($16)
This collaborative effort between French winemaker Paul Epsitalie and American winemaker Adam Richardson produces a sparkling Rose wine made from pinot noir grapes that are sourced from vineyards throughout France. Aromas of strawberry and rose petals dominate the nose while flavors of strawberry, watermelon and baked bread glide over the tongue on a smooth, creamy frame. Serve it well-chilled with Peking duck as a first course.
2002 Argyle Brut, Willamette Valley, Oregon ($25)
Blended from 75 percent chardonnay and 25 percent pinot noir and made in the Methode Champenoise style, this domestic bubbly offer up pretty aromas of apple blossoms, green melon and citrus. Flavors of ripe pear, nectarine and white peach wrap beautifully around the mineral-laden core up front, and there are notes of honey and yeast on the long, fresh finish.
(This is part one of a two-part series. Check next Thursday’s Vine Guy column for its conclusion.)
