Diehard foodies are clapping with glee: executive chef Fabio Trabocchi — formerly of the now-closed Maestro restaurant at the Ritz-Carlton at Tysons Corner — is back in town. He now runs and cooks for his very own restaurant — Fiola, in Penn Quarter. Born in the Le Marche region of Italy near Umbria, Trabocchi grew up on a farm, and eating well was part of life. “My dad was a farmer,” he said, “and I was always with dad and with other farmers. And since I was 14, I have been cooking. It was part of the family’s lifestyle.”
Since his family relied on farm-fresh ingredients, Trabocchi learned at an early age the essence of farm-to-table cooking: to rely on prime ingredients, and to respect their quality and flavor. “This is very trendy for chefs and restaurants right now,” he said, “but it’s been that way for hundreds of years in Italy.”
| If you go |
| Fiola da Fabio Trabocchi |
| Where: 601 Pennsylvania Avenue, NW |
| Info: 202-628-2888 |
| Hours: Lunch, Mon.-Fri., 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m.; Dinner, Mon.-Thurs., 5:30 p.m. to 10:30 p.m., Fri., 5:30 p.m. to 11:30 p.m.; Sat., 5 p.m. to 11:30 p.m.; Closed Sun. |
Enrolling in the prestigious Istitute Alberghiero Panzine in Senigallia, Italy, Trabocchi apprenticed in several local restaurants. By the age of 16, he had been hired as a pastry chef at the 3-star Michelin Ristorante Gualtiero Marchese; when he turned 18, management of a 1-star restaurant in Moena, Italy hired him as sous chef.
Since those early days, Trabocchi’s culinary life has whirled on at tremendous speed: He moved to England, where he cooked at the celebrated Floriana. There followed cooking stints in the US and Spain before moving to the Washington to cook at Maestro.
By that time, Trabocchi had developed his own culinary style, based on the foundational cooking of his youth. “It is both traditional and contemporary Italian food,” he said of his recipes. “Some of the dishes are faithful to regular Italian cooking, but others are interpretive. We use the very best ingredients and present them in a simple way using good techniques.”
Now with his very own restaurant, Trabocchi will surely set some pretty high standards. Consider how in the past food critics and the dining public alike have applauded his talents: In 2002, he was named Food & Wine’s Best New Chef; in 2005 the Restaurant Association of Metropolitan Washington’s Chef of the Year; and the James Beard Foundation’s Best Chef – Mid-Atlantic in 2006.
As it turns out, several others also appreciate his talents. “My kids love my cooking,” he said. “They are adventurers, and my wife and I try to expose them to any kind of food. They love pasta, but will eat anything.”
What is your comfort food?
My wife’s Spanish tortilla (omelet). Fresh fish, simply grilled. It is not necessarily pasta, despite my DNA. Whatever is simple but comes from the heart.
Which is your favorite ingredient?
Fish. I like every kind. I always get excited with every season because it sparks the creative buzz.
Which is your favorite restaurant?
Proof. Its food service is great, but there are so many good restaurants in D.C. Palena is great, so is CityZen, 2 Amys for pizza, Estadio. Also Belga Caf? and Ristorante Tosca.
What’s in your fridge?
Nothing for me, it’s all for the kids. Fish, vegetables, salad, milk, butter. And we try to join them for lunch and dinner. We have champagne in the fridge for us.
Where is your favorite place in the world?
Depends on my mood and what it is used for. It feels special to me to spend time with my children and I value every moment regardless of where we are
Recipe
Grilled Orata With Anchovie Sauce
“Orate all ‘Anconetana con Salsa del Papa”
Serves 6
6 orata (dorade), snapper, or tilapia fillets, 6 to 8 ounces each, skin on, any pinbones removed
Kosher salt and freshly ground white pepper
1 cup minced shallots
2 bay leaves, preferably fresh
? cup finely chopped thyme
1 cup dry white wine, such as Verdicchio or Pinot Grigio
Salsa del Papa
3 thick slices white bread, crusts removed
2 tablespoons white wine vinegar
? cup dry white wine such as Verdicchio or Pinot Grigio
3 hard-boiled eggs
10 oil packed anchovy fillets
1 garlic clove, roughly chopped
? cup extra virgin olive oil
Canola oil
Season the flesh of each fillet lightly with salt and pepper. Sprinkle salt, pepper, and half of the shallots over the bottom of a baking dish large enough to hold the fillets in a single layer. Arrange the fillets skin side down on top of the shallots. Cut or break the bay leaves into pieces and sprinkle over the fillets. Sprinkle the thyme over the fish, carefully pour the wine over and around the fish. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 2 hours.
Meanwhile, prepare the salsa del papa: in a small bowl, combine the bread, vinegar, and wine and set aside to soak for 10 minutes.
Separate the yolks and whites of the eggs; save the whites for another purpose or discard. Squeeze the soaked bread to remove excess liquid. Place the egg yolks in a blender, along with the anchovies, soaked bread, and garlic. Pulse to blend. With the blender running, slowly drizzle in the olive oil, blending until the sauce is the consistency of mayonnaise. Season to taste with salt and pepper and transfer to a sauceboat or serving bowl.
Prepare a charcoal fire or preheat a gas grill. Or preheat a cast-iron grill pan over high heat. Remove the fillets from the marinade. Pat dry. When the grill is hot, clean the grill grate with a wire brush. Lightly rub the grate or grill pan with vegetable oil, place the fillets on it, and cook, turning once, for 2 to 3 minutes on each side. Serve immediately, with the salsa del papa on the side.
