Mothers and daughters may have complex ties to each other, but in the case of Sara Polon — also known as “Soupergirl” — she and her mom, Marilyn, have worked out those knotty intricacies — in a soup kitchen. Indeed, as Polon Junior asserts, her unique business might well have never become such a soup sensation in the D.C. metro area without her mother. She is a Jewish mother, like out of a movie, explains Polon, relating how her mom would say such things to her as “I don’t like your hair.” “But we get along, we are best friends, and we have a close relationship,” said Polon. “We bicker sometimes, but we laugh it off. That’s why we haven’t killed each other yet.”
And it’s good that they have resolved all their personal issues, because since 2008, they have worked feverishly to build up a soup business. “I was really searching for what to do with my life,” she said. “I had read ‘Omnivores Dilemma,’ and it really inspired me. I wanted to join a local food movement, and maybe make ice cream.”
| IF YOU GO |
| Souper Girl |
| » Where: 314 Carroll St. NW |
| » Info: 202-609-7177 |
| » Hours: 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. Monday to Thursday, 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. Frday; 11 a.m. to 7 p.m. Sunday |
That’s when one of Polon’s friends pointed out that her mom made really great soups. After further brainstorming, they came up with the idea. “Mom said, ‘Hey, you better start doing it.’ So she started researching recipes on the Internet and tweeting” said Polon. “So she created a database of hundreds of soup recipes.”
When they experimented with recipes, they would invite neighbors to critique samples, asking them for some honest feedback. Finally, with a supply of polished recipes, the pair started the fledgling business in a rented kitchen space in Cleveland Park. “We would cook there, just the two of us,” said Polon.
As their line of soups have gained traction, Polon can look back over the years and report that the most popular flavor has been the West African Peanut Soup, made with homemade peanut butter, sweet potatoes and cumin. “We worried about peanut allergies,” she says, “but it is by far and away our biggest seller. Soup is nostalgia; it is very warm and cozy, and then you add peanut butter, and it brings us back to childhood.”
Reflecting on the business, Polon acknowledges that the business took off really quickly. “I have not slept in three and a half years,” she said. On the other hand, success has allowed them to move from their first location, then to a synagogue, and to their current retail location in Takoma Park.
That means that walk-in customers can pick up soups — and now salads and desserts — regularly. It also means that Polon now has a staff of 12 — her mom only cooks on site part-time now, though she tests recipes at home — and Polon herself may actually have time to sleep. “We had no expectations that it would end up as it has,” she said.
Q&A
What is your comfort food?
Soup, I love a good bowl of butternut squash soup. It makes everything OK.
What has been the greatest influence on your cooking?
I would say the local food movement. I have learned to cook with so many different types of produce introduced to me by the local farmers. I never cooked with turnips before — I was scared of them. Before I launched this business, I never cooked with parsnips, and now they are one of my favorite winter produce. They are sweet and delicious and produce a thick, creamy soup.
Do you have a favorite cookbook?
Michael Pollan’s ‘Omnivore’s Dilemma’; it changes your approach to food. I love all Deborah Madison’s cookbooks. I love her and all of her cookbooks.
What’s in your fridge?
It’s empty, because I am always here. No, but a lot of apples, kale, and salad fixings.
What is your cooking philosophy, or tips to share with home cooks?
Don’t oversalt. Taste food before you serve it. I used to follow recipes, noting when it was done, and ready to serve. Now I taste food before I serve it, so as you are cooking keep tasting to get the dish perfect. It is something I learned as I went along.
Recipe
Soupergirl’s Triple Ginger Butternut Squash Soup
Soupergirl suggests serving the soup with sliced green onion, dry-roasted peanuts, and sour cream.
Yields 7 cups
1-2 tablespoons olive oil
1 cup chopped onion
3 tablespoons chopped crystallized ginger
1 teaspoon ground ginger
1 (1-inch) piece fresh ginger, peeled and grated
2 butternut squash (about 1 1/3 pounds), peeled and cubed
4 cups vegetable broth
Salt to taste
Ground white pepper to taste
Heat the oil in a large saucepan over medium heat, and saute the onion until softened. Add the three types of ginger, and saute for another two to three minutes. Add the butternut squash and broth, reduce the heat to medium-low, bring to a simmer and cover. Cook until the squash is tender, about 20 minutes. Remove from heat and puree with a processor or blender. Season to taste with the salt and pepper.
