After a yearlong break, Jon Mathieson, executive chef of Tysons Corner’s Michel restaurant, is back to his old tricks: turning ingredients into savory treats. But as he reminisces about his year’s break, Mathieson says that it was all good, an amazing learning experience. “I was teaching myself about artisanal breads using natural starters and organic flours,” he said. “I have a passion for good bread, and my wife and kids loved it. I passed the extras on to neighbors or I would bring bread along as a party food.” That says a lot about the intelligence and dedication of this high-profile chef, who is a graduate of the Culinary Institute of America, and who entered the competitive culinary world as an apprentice in the kitchen with legendary chef, Seppi Renggli, at the Four Seasons in New York. Later he was hired as chef de cuisine at the very upscale L’Espinasse in Manhattan. “I have been very fortunate because I have worked for or alongside of many icons in the industry,” he explained.
Like many of his culinary colleagues, Mathieson attributes his cooking passion to his kitchen duties as a child. “I did a lot of cooking with my mother and grandmother,” he said. “My mom was very frugal, always making preserves and canning for the fall and winter. All the vegetables and fruits would fill up our chest freezer for the winter.”
| IF YOU GO |
| Michel by Michel Richard |
| » Where: The Ritz-Carlton, Tysons Corner, 1700 Tysons Blvd., McLean |
| » Info: 703-744-3999 |
| » Hours: Breakfast 6:30 to 10:30 a.m. Monday to Friday, 7 to 11:30 a.m. Saturday and Sunday; dinner 5:30 to 10 p.m. Tuesday to Thursday, 5:30 to 10:30 p.m. Friday and Saturday |
In addition, his grandmother had a house in the Catskills, Mathieson’s summertime destination. “I worked on the dairy farm, milking cows, bringing cows in from the pastures, picking strawberries, raspberries and blueberries, and catching fish,” he explained. While that sounds like an idyllic summer’s activity, it also formed a firm culinary foundation for the boy who became the chef.
And, of course, there was a turning point in his life, a time when summer fun became the proving ground for a future career. “All the siblings were there,” he said. “My grandmother would leave a recipe for us to get ready for a family dinner. That is how I started to really learn. My signature was a strawberry rhubarb pie for when the family came to visit.”
Add to that the courses Mathieson took at a local community college. “These were culinary classes,” he said, “and it really clicked. I met with a guy, a really happy guy, who was the pastry chef. I chose then to take the savory route … I also saw the passion in Seppi’s kitchen.”
After working at several other high-profile restaurants in Manhattan, Mathieson was hired to work at Falls Church’s 2941 restaurant, and later joined in to co-own and cook for the short-lived Inox restaurant, also in Tysons. Adding to his culinary knowledge as well, Mathieson has consulted on various restaurant projects throughout the United States, giving him a very broad exposure to regional American cooking. Pairing that with his classical French training has given this chef a very comprehensive focus on he creates his dishes at Michel.
Q&A
What is your comfort food?
Sauteed broccoli rabe with caramelized onions and spicy chiles. (See recipe.)
What’s in your fridge?
Champagne, dijon mustard, natural brown eggs, lots of fruits and vegetables, yogurt and bread.
What is your must-have ingredient?
Mustard. I love mustard — violet, dijon, whole-grain. And hot sauce.
Which is your favorite restaurant?
CityZen, Marcel’s, Eve, Citronelle, the Source, Fiola and Bistrot du Coin.
What would you do with a year off work?
I like to travel and explore cuisines nationally and internationally. Continue baking bread and working out more. And spend more time with my family.
Recipe
Spicy Sauteed Broccoli Rabe with Caramelized Onion
Serves 4
1 bunch broccoli rabe
3 Tbsp. olive oil
1 large Spanish onion, peeled and julienned
1 red bell pepper, seeded and julienned
1 serrano chile, thinly sliced
3 cloves garlic, sliced
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
To prepare the broccoli rabe, trim off the bottom 2 inches of the woody stems and discard. Bring a large saucepan of 2 gallons of lightly salted water to a boil, and blanch the broccoli tops. Drain and shock in ice water. Gently squeeze the tops to avoid bruising.
Heat 1 1/2 tablespoons olive oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat, and caramelize the onions until tender and rich, brown color. Add the bell pepper, serrano chile and garlic. Continue to saute for 3 minutes. Season with salt and pepper, and serve.
