What do you get when you cross an Italian count whose lineage in Venice can be traced back several centuries with agraduate of Texas A&M and the University of Bordeaux? Well, you get a low-key, well-educated enologist who is passionate about turning the world of Italian wine on its ear. And with all of the connections he has made in both Italy and France, he’s well on his way.
What does France have to do with making quality wine in Italy? A lot, since Brandolini’s close friend happens to be none other than Georges Pauli, winemaker extraordinaire at Chateau Gruaud-Larose (as well as a very popular wine consultant to several high-end chateaux throughout Bordeaux).
It also doesn’t hurt to have a French spouse whose family history is thoroughly steeped in the French wine trade and run a chateau for good measure.
Utilizing the skills he acquired from his own education, Pauli’s experience and his family’s legendary vineyard, Vistora — a vineyard located in the Friuli district of northeast Italy and owned by the Brandolinis since 1780 — Count Brandolini began to produce wines of remarkable depth and character. The truly remarkable feat is that he did this with the merlot varietal, a grape whose home base is usually associated with France and California. Brandolini uses micro-vinification of select merlot clones and rootstocks from Bordeaux along with the merlot vines from the Vistora property — planted with merlot for more than a century — to produce a red wine with ample fruit flavors and notable structure. It’s an Italian merlot that should be taken seriously.
In addition to the ancient Vistora vineyard, Brandolini also owns a 325-acre estate in Treviso, where he produces wines made from the refosco, merlot, pinot grigio and tocai friulano varietals. Brandolini also is the President of Chateau Greysac (a Crus Bourgeois Supérieurs located in the Medoc region of Bordeaux). Brandolini’s wife, Marie, stays just as busy running Naranzaria, the family’s well-known wine bar located right on the Grand Canal in their hometown of Venice and her own Venetian glass gallery.
Here are my favorites from the Brandolini portfolio. They are available in most area wine shops including Plain Old Pearson’s, Cleveland Park Liquors, Calvert Woodley and MacArthur Beverages, located in the District. Retail prices are approximate.
2005 Conte Brandolini d’Adda Treanni, Red Wine, Friuli, Italy ($20)
The concept for this wine came to Brandolini one day in the shower. The word “treanni” (pronounced tree-on-nee) translates to “three years” in Italian, and the count wanted to create a nonvintage wine that incorporated the best of three vintages and three varietals in order to make a wine that provides a consistent “house style” from year to year, much the way nonvintage Champagnes are produced. The wine is a blend of merlot, cabernet franc and refosco from three recent vintages (the 2005 refers to the most recent release). It provides plenty of red cherry/berry fruit on the light, fresh nose and palate. Brandolini refers to this wine as an “everyday wine with character.” The abundant acidity and decent balance make it perfect to partner with pizza.
2005 Conte Brandolini d’Adda Refosco, Fruili, Italy ($15)
The refosco grape is a red varietal grown mainly in the Fruili region and is known for it’s easy, graceful style. Here it offers up a lovely nose of vanilla and cherry cola. The vibrant flavors of red cherry and red raspberry dance lightly across the tongue, maintaining a lasting impression on the pretty, cola and red currant-fueled finish. I think this is a great way to start the evening, with antipasto of course.
2003 Conte Brandolini d’Adda Vistora, Fruili, Italy ($23)
Made from 100 percent merlot grapes grown on the Vistora estate, this is simply a dazzling merlot for the money. Scents of cedar, chalk, chocolate and floral notes command and hold the attention of the nose. Vibrant flavors of cassis, black raspberries and hints ofchocolate-covered cherries are delivered with great structure and linger in the mouth like a long echo. A perfect choice to enjoy with braised veal cheeks.
2005 Conte Brandolini d’Adda Tocai Friulano, Fruili-Venezia, Italy ($14)
This wine is made from one of the most widely planted white varietals in the area. The name is derived from the local word that refers to the small glass the bars use to serve it in. There is a bit of controversy about the varietals connection to the more famous namesake, Tokaji, from Hungary, but there is no controversy about the wonderful scents of honeysuckle, apricots and peach on the nose. The ample acidity keeps the ripe flavors of peaches, melon and figs crisp and refreshing — without being cloying. The perfect aperitif on a hot day — served chilled.
Do you have a favorite royalty of wine? E-mail me at [email protected].
