What happens when you become old enough to start drinking — and liking — the wines made by the children of the winemakers you grew up with? Well, after the initial shock wears off, you take stock of your own age as well as the age of the wines in your cellar. Then you marvel at how the wines seem to carry on some of the characteristics you adored in the first generation yet admire the nuances added by the second.
This is the experience I recently enjoyed when I had the opportunity to taste through the wine portfolio of B Cellars, a small, artisanal winery in Napa Valley, Calif. The winemaker, Kurt Venge, is the son of legendary winemaker/consultant Nils Venge of Saddleback Vineyards (and other notable projects), and knows more about vineyards and grapes than any person his age should. Kirk literally grew up in the vineyards as he tagged along with his winemaking dad on his trips around Napa to meet with his many famous clients.
Along the way, Kirk became familiar with the special characteristics and charm of each vineyard in the Valley — which is invaluable for a young winemaker trying to make his own mark in a competitive industry. And even though he has very large shoes to fill, Kirk has worked hard to develop his own reputation for making beautifully balanced, thoughtfully stylized wines. He knows exactly what type of fruit he wants to use for each wine he makes and — thanks to the many hours spent at his father’s side — knows just where to find the best grapes. “The vineyards are key,” says Kirk. “For B Cellars, we harvested from 19 different vineyards — vineyards like the To Kalon Vineyard É the Hudson and Caldwell vineyards, as well as small, home-grown plots like Auger in St. Helena.”
But Kirk is not doing this alone. He had the good fortune of being hired by two very successful businessmen who left lucrative careers to begin an adventure in wine at just the right time. Jim Borsack was a marketing professional and business owner with more than 30 years’ experience in the luxury goods industry. Duffy Keys spent 20 years as a senior-level executive with Four Seasons Hotels and Resorts developing marketing, public relations, finance and operational strategies for the luxury-lodging giant. The two met at a Fourth of July barbeque in 2002 and decided to take advantage of each other’s synergistic talents to create B Cellars.
Together, they all share a common vision to produce high-end, quality wines using a multi-vineyard discipline. Many of the wines in the B Cellars line-up — the name is a play on the symbol for Brix (a wine term which defines the measure of sugar/alcohol content in grape juice) — are blends that take advantage of the unique qualities of mutually complimentary varietals from specific lots. It’s how B Cellars earns an “A”. Retail prices are approximate.
2007 B Cellars Blend 23 (white wine blend), Napa Valley, Calif. ($28)
This blend of chardonnay, sauvignon blanc and viognier features a vibrant citrus bouquet with hints of acacia on nose. Mouth-filling flavors of tropical fruit, pineapple, nectarine and lemon-lime citrus notes are balanced by bright acidity. The medium finish has an intriguing mineral undertone.
2006 B Cellars Sangiovese, Napa Valley, Calif. ($35)
I love sangiovese and this domestic version hits all of the high notes, including abundant acidity that caters to the lively flavors of strawberry, cherry, raspberry and pomegranate. A touch of vanilla and the fresh finish adds a nice layer of complexity.
2006 B Cellars Petite Sirah, Napa Valley, Calif. ($38)
A robust wine bursting with ripe fruit, including black cherry, blueberry, dark plum and cocoa that glides across the palate. Hints of mint and black licorice sneak in on the powerful-yet-tamed finish.
2005 B Cellars Blend 24, Napa Valley, Calif. ($38)
This red wine is a blend of cabernet sauvignon, merlot, sangiovese and petite sirah, reminiscent of a Super Tuscan. The fragrant nose shows off scents of plum, cherry and toasty oak while the palate exhibits flavors of cassis, cherry and raspberry on a well-structured frame – thanks to the notable acidity and the firm tannins.
2005 B Cellars Blend 25, Napa Valley, Calif. ($49)
This blend features cabernet sauvignon and syrah from some of Napa’s most prestigious vineyards. Scents of blackberry, dark plum, black olives and roasted coffee dominate the nose. Rich flavors of cassis, black fruit and cocoa are revealed in layers, with a dose of toasty vanilla on the lengthy finish.
2005 B Cellars Blend 26 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley, Calif. ($95)
This single varietal powerhouse is crafted from fruit sourced from some very impressive vineyards, including Georges III, To Kalon and Stagecoach. Perfumed scents of cassis, melted licorice and toasty oak on the nose are buoyed by substantial flavors of black cherry liqueur black, blackberry and black plum. Earthy notes shine on the long, impressive finish.
