It’s hard to imagine a more natural fit for the kitchen: Salvatore Ferro, executive chef at Clyde’s of Georgetown. A native of Grosse Point, Mich., Ferro grew up in an intensely food-oriented Sicilian family. Indeed, Ferro still hangs onto the stool he stood on as a youngster in his family’s kitchen. “Cooking was always part of the family life,” he said. “When I was a kid, my grandmother was in a wheelchair, and she rolled up to the kitchen table [to prepare meals]. We were always in the kitchen cooking with my mother. I get my hard-work ethic from her.”
He recalls fondly the big family meals and enjoying such dishes as spedini, which are thin slices of beef-stuffed cheese, breaded, and grilled or baked. “Braciole, that memory has always stuck with me,” he said. “That was a special food my family ate on holidays.”
| If you go |
| Clyde’s of Georgetown |
| Where: 3236 M St., NW, |
| Info: 202-333-9180 |
| Hours: Lunch, Mon.-Fri., 11:30 a.m. to 4:30 p.m.; Dinner, Mon.-Thurs., 4:30 p.m. to 10:30 p.m., Fri., Sat., till 11 p.m., Sun. 4 p.m. to 10:30 p.m.; Brunch, Sat., 11 a.m. to 4 p.m., Sun., 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. |
If his family cooking agenda were not enough to propel him toward a culinary career, Ferro tells of a second big influence: an after-school job at a gourmet meat market. “One day, the owner taught me how to clean a lamb rack and tenderloins.”
When he turned 19, Ferro went to work in a local Italian restaurant for a year and later enrolled in Le Cordon Bleu culinary school in Las Vegas.
Acknowledging that he has accomplished much in his 27 years, he attributes it to hard work, and quite clearly, to some special advantages. He worked with chef Guy Savoy at his restaurant in Caesars Palace in Las Vegas. “He taught me not to go too overboard,” said Ferro. “He stressed seasonality, technique, and plating. I finally started to get it. This is what cooking is about.”
Among other influences he lists his high school teacher Leo Lombardo. “He stayed on top of me and kept me on the straight and narrow so I didn’t go with the wrong crowd,” he said. “He is very proud of me and so is my family. My brother came to Clyde’s with all his colleagues, and were raving about it. They said that it is the best place to eat.” Ferro noted that other family members have dined in, and had really good times there.
And finally, Ferro gives a nod to his colleague and mentor, executive chef Daniel Giusti at 1789 (Clyde’s upscale restaurant in Georgetown). “He worked with me at Guy Savoy,” he says. “And the influence is that I truly try to stick to the seasons, especially the seasons in Maryland, Virginia and D.C. … It’s all about clean flavors, making flavors jump out from the center of the plate.”
Q&A
What is your comfort food?
Hamburgers. I love the cheeseburgers at this restaurant. At home, I love spaghetti with olive oil, garlic, parsley, anchovies and grated Parmesan cheese. Then, anything with pork from braised shoulder to pork chops. And meat and potatoes.
Which is your favorite cookbook?
I can’t say that I have a favorite cookbook. I have so many I can’t read them all. Right now I am reading Ethan Stowell’s “New Italian Kitchen.”
Which are your favorite ingredients?
Tomatoes, olive oil, veal stock and butter.
What’s in your fridge?
One veal chop, cooked baby food, milk, a packet of corn tortillas, chicken soup. Usually dinner from the day before. I go home and cook, even at midnight.
Which is your favorite restaurant?
Obelisk. And Pho 75. I go there every Sunday.
Recipe
Salvatore Ferro’s Herb-Crusted Scallops
Look for seasonal fresh fava beans at farmers markets or at area Asian markets. A fine substitute is fresh or frozen lima beans. Serve 4 scallops per person as an entree or 2 scallops per person as an appetizer.
Serves 2 to 4
Herb Crust
? cup minced parsley
? cup thinly sliced chives
? cup panko breadcrumbs
2 sticks unsalted butter
Bring butter to room temperature
Combine all ingredients and beat until well combined. Refrigerate.
Fava Beans and Morel Mushrooms
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 cups local morel mushrooms, rinsed and dried
1 bunch spring scallions, trimmed and sliced top and bottom
1 cup peeled fava beans, blanched
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
Salt and pepper to taste
Heat a saute pan over medium heat; add the butter, but do not let it brown. Add morels, and saute about three minutes. Add the fava beans, and saute another three minutes. Add scallions and lemon juice. Season with salt and pepper.
Scallops
2 tablespoons canola or olive oil
8 large scallops (10 to 12 scallops per pound)
Salt and pepper to taste
Heat a saute pan over medium heat, and add the oil. Season scallops with salt and pepper.
Add the scallops to the hot pan; do not overcrowd. Sear until the scallops are golden brown and turn over. Top each scallop with one tablespoon of the herb butter. Broil until the top crust turns golden brown. Serve on top of morels and fava beans.
