Googling the name “On the Fly” yields several results outside D.C. But none matches what the local On the Fly folks are doing — and you’ll know them by their eco-friendly all-green foodmobiles that cruise D.C. streets or park at convenient city locations. Founded just more than a year ago by then-partners Gabe Klein, Michel Heitstuman and Christopher Lynch — three young entrepreneurs who identified Washingtonians’ cravings for upscale green cuisine — On the Fly has hit the streets running, so to speak.
Besides entertaining the public with their sleek, slick design, the all-electric On the Fly “smartkarts” — these will make you smile, Chief Executive Officer Heitstuman says — keep eco-friendly foods prepared in the home-base kitchen ready to serve.
“We started with tacos,” Heitstuman says, “and the public said they were the best tacos in town. Then we introduced turkey chili.”
Each of their eight carts has a food theme, from burritos to vegetarian entrées, soups and salads, sandwiches and even hot dogs.
That helps patrons identify what’s offered and is a big draw for visitors strolling the Mall. (The company also operates several “smartkafes” in downtown D.C.)
And with an eye to supporting local food producers, On the Fly partners have joined forces with several, including Julia’s Empanadas, Rocklands Barbecue and Stan Feder’s Simply Sausage.
“We keep it as local as possible,” Heitstuman says. “We were the first retailer to partner with FRESHfarm Market. The chef would purchase the extra produce at the end of market hours. So we offer soups and salads based on local ingredients.”
The public’s response apparently has been nothing short of overwhelming.
That’s thanks in large part to On the Fly’s edgy executive chef, Jordan Lichman, who smiles when he says people in D.C. are not used to getting street food that’s organic … and truly delicious at that.
“The most popular recipe,” he says, “is the Japanese soy-edamame salad. I like it for the gym cafés [located in the three Results Gyms, at 315 G St. SE, the Farragut North Metro stop at 17th and L streets NW, and the City Vista building at 499 K St. NW] because the dressing is flavorful and nonfat, and the salad has sophisticated flavors.”
Describing himself as a really lucky guy despite the long work hours, native Californian Lichman is no stranger to the upscale kitchen: He started cooking Alice Waters’ recipes while a college student, then trained at the Culinary Institute of America and later worked in various capacities at Madison, Wis.’s Opera House restaurant.
After moving to D.C., Lichman worked as a private chef and also in very public kitchens such as Galileo and the Willard Room before settling in for 20 months at the Inn at Little Washington.
But you should know this: Lichman is a street food enthusiast, having traveled extensively and eaten at street hawkers’ stands in numerous countries.
“I love street foods,” he says, making him the ideal fit for overseeing staff, cooking and developing recipes for the roughly 2,000 meals the company serves each day, not counting its catering business.
“We don’t do big presentations,” he says. “For the carts, I had to understand how to cook in the carts [each is a mini-kitchen equipped to chill, heat and serve the food]. So I have braised the pork carnitas and the chicken estofado with five kinds of chiles, apples and tomatoes. I would love to do carne asada and fish tacos, but these won’t work with the carts as they are now set up.”
Lichman must also create dishes that really are food on the go. Sightseers and locals look for fast, easy, carry-away dishes, moving into and out of the line in a hurry. That is, unless people stop to chat.
“People chat with us because they think we are so ‘cute,’ ” he says. “We engage with the customer and we hand out maps, so we are an information stand, too.”
As Lichman continues to develop the on-the-go menu, he aims to keep the food healthful and reasonably priced. But he has at least one frustration: “If only we could create organic beignets [fried doughnuts] cooked in a healthful way,” he says.
If you go
On the Fly
315 G St. SE
202-544-9046
For cart locations, visit www.ontheflydc.com or follow them on Twitter @OntheflyDC for the SmartKart locations, which change daily.
Hours: at 7th and F Sts., NW, 11 a.m. to 3 p.m.; on the Mall in front of the National Museum of American History, 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. Check Web site or Twitter for more locations and hours.
Q&A with Chef Jordan Lichman
What is your approach to cooking?
I’ve been cooking for 15 years. … It’s a lot of work with a small business and long hours. I am testing different concepts for the carts. The farmers market part is awesome. As I’ve matured, my cooking is more about simplicity. On a cart, you strip away all the tricks. … Growing up in Southern California and traveling, I have pulled in some Asian and South and Central American influences.
What do you cook at home?
What I had last night, pan-seared hangar steak with steamed asparagus. I love Mexican food and all Asian food, but at home, it’s French- or American-inspired foods
What’s your comfort food?
Stanley’s sausages [Stan Feder’s Simply Sausage products] or a Bavarian sausage from Wisconsin. Or a good taco … a chorizo taco.
What’s in your basic pantry?
Black peppercorns and a grinder, panko bread crumbs, chilies — especially Mexican ancho and guajillo chilies — Dijon mustard, balsamic vinegar, garlic and onions and kosher salt, soy sauce, rice wine, sesame oil. With these you can do anything.
What is your signature dish?
The chicken estofado, on the cart. It is so unusual and has a real depth of flavor. Is it sweet? Spicy? There are a lot of bold flavors with … cinnamon, coriander, thyme for aromatics. It’s very complex, like a great wine.
From the Chef’s Kitchen
Japanese-Style Soy Salad
Serves six as a side dish
1 pound organic frozen edamame, shelled
1 Tbsp soy or canola oil
1 pound shiitake mushrooms
5 scallions, thinly sliced
1/4 cup pickled ginger, thinly sliced
1 pound organic tofu, diced
3/4 cup miso vinaigrette (see recipe below)
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
Blanch the edamame in boiling water until tender, about five minutes. Plunge the edamae in ice water to stop the cooking. Drain.
Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium heat and sauté the mushrooms until soft, about five minutes. Remove from the heat and put into a large serving bowl. Add the scallions and pickled ginger. Add the diced tofu. Toss the salad very gently with the vinaigrette, season with salt and pepper. Add extra dressing to your taste.
Miso Vinaigrette
One 7-ounce container organic light or yellow miso
1 cup organic rice vinegar
1/2 cup organic soy sauce
1/2 cup organic mirin
White pepper to taste
Combine all the ingredients in a blender and purée until smooth. Store in an airtight container. Yields 3 cups.
