When talking to Garret Fleming, executive chef of D.C.’s Southern eatery, Eatonville, you may first have to learn this: Fleming hales from Charleston, S.C., and his culinary mind-set is all Southern, probably all the time. You may also learn this: His childhood family life was rather food-centric. “My mom had a dinner bell she rang at mealtime,” he says, “and we all ate together. … Each meal she took two to three days to perfect the recipe.” At the kitchen table, all talk focused on different aspects of the meal, what succeeded, what failed. As a result, he always wanted to eat better and better, and was always figuring out what went wrong in a dish. “The Fleming family always cooked together,” he says. “That was how I was raised. I was so excited to do this the rest of my life.”
Despite these culinary influences, however, Fleming also tells of growing up studying music, philosophy, and French, with law school as his ultimate goal. But after college, Fleming traveled to France, and then throughout Europe, delighting in new and dazzling culinary experiences.
| IF YOU GO |
| Eatonville |
| » Where: 2121 14th St. NW |
| » Info: 202-332-9672 |
| » Hours: 11:30 a.m. to 11 p.m. Sunday to Thursday; 11:30 a.m. to midnight Friday and Saturday |
“I can think of a meal I shared with my father at a restaurant, called Poker D’ace in Besancon, France,” he says. “It was recommended by several with the guarded caveat ‘cuisine bourgeoise.’ I started out with the cerveaux, a dish of calves brains that were lightly poached and then pan-seared in browned butter and finished with lime juice and parsley.” His entree? A very savory stew of wild boar and a couple bottles of delicious wine. “It still stands out as one of my most memorable eating experiences in all of Europe,” he says.
Ultimately, he realized that he hated everything that pertained to law, and what he really wanted to do was to own a restaurant. After returning home, he spent one year traveling and cooking around the South. “I saw an excitement about Southern cuisine, Lowcountry cooking,” he says. “It has its own culture and history. I could never stop learning about it.”
Then his sister suggested he attend cooking school. Fleming enrolled in the Culinary Institute of America, where he says he was blown away by the passion students and staff had for maintaining high culinary standards. Wanting to return to Charleston for his externship, Fleming researched Southern chefs, looking for a local restaurant with the best reputation.
He landed at Peninsula Grill in Charleston, the hub of local cuisine. “Bob Carter opened this up 15 years ago,” he says. “He is old school, a big, angry chef who was running around screaming. It was traumatic, but I learned about consistency in cooking. I also learned how to manage a kitchen and to be responsible for quality control. … I also learned how not to scream at staff.”
Now with the shaping and perfecting an all-Southern menu under his directives, Fleming is bringing in the braises, so typical of Southern cooking, and even the old-style ingredients such as stone-milled grits.
But what he is searching for is the ultimate Lady Baltimore cake. “It is from Charleston,” he says. “I think the restaurant needs a signature cake.”
Q&A
What is your comfort food?
Southern Italian and fresh pasta of any kind. Or bistro-quality French food.
Which is your favorite cookbook?
I have so many. The book I use more than any other is Harold McGee’s On Food and Cooking.
Which is your favorite restaurant?
I love Jaleo, and its history brings the standards of all restaurant up. And Komi, Bayou Bakery, 2 Amys, Pizza Paradiso in Dupont.
What’s in your fridge?
Fat back. Fabulous beets that are pickled. Jowl bacon, eggs, Cristalino Rose. Not a lot.
Where is your favorite place in the world?
Besides Charleston, Naples, Italy. I was there on a New Year’s Eve seven years ago. … It was crazy, and electric atmosphere.
Recipe
Squash Pudding
Serves 4
As the chef notes, “This is a very tasty side dish for grilled meats during the spring and summer, but also delicious on its own for a brunch or lunch.” To make the croutons, use day-old baguettes that you dice. Toss the bread cubes in melted butter and salt, then toast for 5 minutes in a 500-degree oven until golden brown.
4 to 5 large eggs
2 cups heavy cream
Salt and white pepper to taste
Pinch ground mace
3 Tbsps butter
2 cups large dice (3/4- to 1-inch) summer squash
1/2 cup large dice zucchini
2 tablespoons minced garlic
1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme
2 cups large dice croutons
1 1/4 cups grated Gruyere cheese
1/2 cup grated Locatelli cheese, or Parmesan cheese
Preheat the oven to 300 degrees. Butter four 4-ounce ramekins.
Whisk together the eggs, cream, salt, and mace. Set aside. Melt the butter in a medium-sized skillet, and, over medium-high heat, sautee the squash, thyme, and garlic. Season with salt and peer. Cook until the garlic is softened and the thyme is aromatic but the squash is still firm, about 3 minutes. Cool.
Combine this in a large bowl with the croutons, Gruyere and Locatelli cheeses, and egg mixture. Divide mixture into the prepared ramekins.
Bake until the tops are golden-brown and a knife inserted in the center comes out clean of custard (not cheese), or about 17 minutes. Let sit for several minutes before serving.
