Since the mid-18th century, Portugal’s wine reputation has been mainly built around port, the classic fortified wine made exclusively in the Douro region, located in the northern part of the country. Yet, less than half of the approximately 185 million gallons of wine produced each year is dedicated to these sweet wines. It turns out Portugal, now the seventh-largest wine-producing country in the world, has a lot more to offer than just port.
Located in the western portion of Europe, Portugal is bordered by the Atlantic Ocean to the west and south and by Spain to the north and east. It is a country of diverse climatic conditions with at least six distinctive wine appellations that stretch from the cooler regions of Vinho Verde in the north, to the Lagos region deep in the south.
One of the largest wine-growing regions — taking up one-third of the country — is the sun-drenched rolling hills of Alentejo, located in the southern half of the country. Often referred to as the “breadbasket of Portugal,” the warm-to-hot climate was, until recently, better suited for cereal grains and olive and oak cork trees than for fine wine production. But thanks to investments in winemaking equipment and techniques, as well as modern irrigation methods, the quality of both white and red wines from the region have dramatically improved.
While the white grape varietals, including antao vaz, arinto, manteudo and perrum, are gaining popularity for their tropical and stone fruit characteristics, it is clearly the traditional Portuguese red wines, such as alfrocheiro, alicante bouschet and touriga nacional, that are in high demand. In addition, Old World grapes, such as syrah, cabernet sauvignon and petite verdot, are being cultivated for single varietal production as well as for “Super Alentejo” red blends.
The Alentejo consists of eight geographically diverse subappellations, each with its own Denominacion de Origen Calificada (DOC), including coastal, plains and mountainous growing regions. The best-known regions are Borba, where limestone soils favor bright, citrus-focused white wines, and Evora, whose ancient historical sites and luscious red wines makes it a popular tourist destination. Other appellations include Granja-Amareleja, Moura, Portalegre, Redondo, Reguengos and Vidigueira.
At a recent tasting, sponsored jointly by the Portuguese Embassy and the Wines of Alentejo association, I was able to take a tasting tour of this up-and-coming appellation. Retail prices are approximate.
Starting off in the Vidigueira subregion, the 2009 Paulo Laureano Branco ($18) is made from the white grape varietal antao vaz and possesses a wonderful floral nose of tropical fruits, nectarine, minerals and a touch of vanilla. The flavors are very well balanced in the mouth with notes of tropical fruit up front and just a touch of banana on the pretty finish.
Another remarkable white wine is the 2008 Esporao Reserva Branco ($18). This charming blend of antao vaz, arinto and roupeiro grapes is very reminiscent of a white Rhone varietal blend, sporting a floral nose of stone fruit and acacia flowers. The unctuous body displays subtle flavors of apple, papaya and toasty oak on the front of the palate while hints of vanilla round out the lush finish.
One of the best values in red wine from the Borba appellation is the 2007 Marques De Borba Red Wine by Ramos Vinhos. For $14, you get a wine made from trincadeira, aragones, alicante bouschet and cabernet sauvignon grapes that are picked by hand, crushed partially by foot and then aged for five months in French oak barrels. The nose is perfumed with strawberry and cherry blossom aromas. This medium-bodied frame carries warm flavors of red berry fruit with a round textured mouthfeel leading to a soft, lingering finish.
Now I know that you are not supposed to buy a book by its cover or a wine by its label, but I love the label on the 2007 Malhadinha Nova Monte Da Peceguina Red Wine ($35), whose cartoon dragonfly was drawn by the young daughter of the owners. The wine is made from a blend of aragones, alicante bouschet, touriga nacional, syrah and alfrocheiro. It possesses an intense aroma of black fruit, baking spices and minerals. The flavors are deep and concentrated, with ripe strawberries and cherries coming through on the front of the palate. Notes of tobacco add depth on the long, persistent finish.
Heading up a notch in price — $40 — and in satisfaction is the 2005 Dona Maria Red Wine Reserva. Made from a blend of alicante bouschet, petite verdot and syrah and aged for one year in French oak barrels, this wine explodes with aromas of dark fruit, mint and spices. Rich, layered flavors of black plums, dark cherry and spices fill out the palate while hints of tobacco lead to a silky-but-powerful finish.
