If I have one major resolution for the New Year — other than the traditionally failed attempts to lose weight, learn a new language and stop speeding — it is the task of using the proper glass for the appropriate type of wine. Now, lest you think that I am a snob, consider that different types of glassware for red, white and sparkling wines have been de rigueur for centuries, so it only makes sense that wine glass design has evolved over time to take advantage of specific styles of wine. The size and shape of the bowl, as well as the type of glass used in manufacturing, make a huge difference in extracting the true quality of wine. For example, aromatic red wines require a large bowl that tapers down to a medium opening, giving the wine room to come into contact with air. As aromas move toward the tapered opening, the bouquet becomes more concentrated and nuances more discernible. White wines, on the other hand, feature a smaller bowl and use a thinner rim to take advantage of the more subtle nature of the style. Champagne flutes are long and slender in order to preserve the bubbles and show off the sparkling display.
But even beyond red and white wines, glassware can be further delineated based on the varietal. Pinot noir has a much different aroma or flavor profile than, say, cabernet sauvignon, therefore different styles of glassware have been developed to take advantage of and emphasize each wine’s particular traits. If you don’t believe me, try this simple experiment: Take a bottle of pinot noir and a bottle of cabernet sauvignon. Pour a little of the pinot noir in to a glass made specifically designed for pinot noir, a glass designed specifically for cabernet sauvingnon, a regular water glass and a coffee mug. Repeat the process with the cabernet and see what happens. I love doing this at dinner parties where my guests don’t know which wine I have poured into their glasses. They are always amazed when they tell me that they think that the pinot noir tastes better in the pinot glass and the cabernet sauvignon tastes better in the cabernet glass. I am happy to report that — to date — no one has selected the coffee cup as a preferred mode of consumption.
Regardless of the glass you choose, always smell it first. Too many special wine experiences have been spoiled by accidental contact with residual soap left in the glass or other off-putting odors that get transmitted to the wine due to improper storage (i.e. glasses left in cardboard boxes or in kitchen cabinets alongside cooking spices). This goes for decanters as well.
In our house, the debate isn’t over which glass to use for a specific varietal — we have as many varieties of glassware as we have varietals of wine — but rather whether to use a traditional stemmed glass or the new avant-garde stemless variety (i.e. the “O” series from Riedel). The bowls on the two sets of glassware are identical, the only thing missing, or not, is the long stem. I am a fan of stemless style since I am prone to snapping off a few of the delicate stems every time I wash them. While my spouse loves the ease of simply popping stemless glasses in the dishwasher, her main complaint is that holding a stemless bowl in your hand can warm up a white wine more quickly than holding it by the stem. I countered that if she keeps making me wash the traditional glassware, they will all eventually become stemless. I contend that the stem has less to do with the enjoyment of the wine and more with aesthetics.
Riedel is the most well-known maker of high-end glassware. The company makes several levels of quality wine glasses, starting with the Ouverture series, a good beginner set, all the way up to the expensive Sommelier line, designed for discerning palates. The Vinum series is my favorite set of glasses. Even though this middle-of-the-road series is machine-made, it is a workhorse glass that can be enjoyed every day while providing enough quality to please picky palates. There are 16 styles to choose from, but my favorite styles are the versatile Bordeaux/Cabernet glass which can be used with most red wines, the Chablis/Chardonnay glass that can be used with most white wines and the Red Burgundy/Pinot Noir glasses that can be used with lighter, more delicate wines. The same styles are also available in the stemless “O” series.
Whether you prefer the elegant look of stems or the convenience of stemless, it is worth making a resolution to invest in quality glassware that will allow you to get the most enjoyment out of a particular wine. This is one resolution I look forward to keeping.
