As trim and tailored as always, despite now cooking for and managing two highly successful Indian restaurants, Sudhir Seth still projects the same calm humor as he did years ago, starting out at Heritage India restaurant in Washington. But in the past decade, Seth has moved on to opening a traditional Indian restaurant in Bethesda, Passage to India, and a more contemporary setting for Indian fusion fare in Rockville, Spice Xing. “I live on I-270,” he says of his daily grind. “I want to be in both restaurants twice a day.”
| IF YOU GO |
| Spice Xing |
| » Where: 100-B Gibbs St., Rockville |
| » Info: 301-610-0303 |
| » Hours: Lunch, 11:30 to 2:30 daily; Dinner, 5:30 to 9:30 p.m. Sunday to Thursday and 5:30 to 10:30 p.m. Friday and Saturday |
But the challenges of keeping up with his restaurants have not spoiled the product. “I am a purist,” he says, adding that while consistency is key to his successful cooking, sometimes slip-ups can occur. Maybe a little too much spice, too little garlic, perhaps, but as Seth comments, “cooking is more art than science.”
At his new restaurant, Spice Xing, Seth says he has added not only more vegetarian options, but also dishes that represent other cultures and groups that have lived in India over the centuries. Opening up one of the menus, he points to the appetizer chilli cheese toast (British), Tawa scallops (French), lamb ishtoo (military food) and salli boti jardaloo, a Parsi-style lamb stew with apricots. He has sampled each of the dishes he has put on his menu.
A studious and thoughtful chef, Seth has researched his recipes well in his native India.
“For example, the pao bhaji, a Goan dish, with potatoes and green peas,” he says, describing how he learned about a particular appetizer. “The cook has a huge skillet on a street cart, and he stirs around in it ghee [clarified butter], and adds onions, tomatoes cooked until mushy, cumin, peas and potatoes. After cooking that, he then takes the bread with hot butter and rubs off the skillet.” Adding a version of this Goan fare to his menu, Seth introduces his patrons to exotic Indian street food.
Not only have his travels crisscrossed India, Seth also apprenticed in various Indian kitchens, from Mumbai to Bangalore, Madras, Bengal and New Delhi. Now a U.S. resident for about 20 years, Seth developed a real awe for his native cuisine. “Living here, I suddenly realized how amazing Indian food is,” he says. “The sheer size of the country! I respect our cuisine a lot more, and I work to keep up with it and to learn more.”
And for his future? Now with two thriving restaurants, he might consider a third eventually, he said. And maybe in Virginia?
“I want my growth to be very careful,” he said, adding that he will never give up cooking. What is not in his deck of cards is a move back to India. “I don’t think I can afford it,” he says, “It’s extremely expensive. Did you read about the $1.1 billion house that just opened in Mumbai?” His remaining in the metro area is good news for foodies.
Q&A
What is your comfort food?
My wife [from East India] makes kichree, a dish of rice and dal cooked together with cumin, chilies, asafoetida and ghee. It is served with deep-fried potatoes and eggplants.
What is in your fridge at home?
You will always find spinach (fresh and frozen), yogurt, cilantro, baby bok choy, bagels, cream cheese (with chives), and, of course, Corona beer. We are mainly vegetarians at home, and my wife, Sonali, occasionally prepares seafood that she prefers to buy fresh the day she cooks it.
Do you have a favorite cookbook?
No, I still don’t have a favorite cookbook.
Which chef do you admire most in the world?
Professional chef: ex-Buckingham Palace chef George Hamilton, who taught us when we joined Taj Mahal hotel in Mumbai. Otherwise, I have learned the most watching my mom cook — organizing, speed, assimilation of different regional cuisines, innovation, cost control, etc.
What has been the greatest influence on your cooking?
While in India I have eaten in countless kitchens and the homes of friends and family. The housewives and grandmothers have been the biggest influence. Since the past four to five years I have become more convinced about the philosophy of Indian cuisine and ayurveda — using fresh local ingredients and the therapeutic use of spice combinations in almost all traditional recipes.
Recipe
PANCHPHORNER ALOO-PHALI CHORCHORI
(Five-seed tempered potatoes and beans)
Serves 4
3 Tbsp mustard oil
1 Tbsp total combine fenugreek seeds, nigella seeds, mustard seeds, fennel seeds, and cumin
1 medium-size onion, sliced
3 potatoes, peeled and cut into 3/4-inch cubes
6 ounces green beans, cut into 3/4-inch pieces
Salt to taste
1/2 tsp ground turmeric
1/4 tsp chili powder
1 Tbsp ghee
1/2 tsp sugar
Heat mustard oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat till clear; reduce heat to medium. Add all the seeds and stir for 30 seconds. Add the onion, and saute 5 to 7 minutes. Add the potatoes and green beans, and saute for 5 minutes. Stir in salt, chili powder and turmeric; reduce heat to medium-low, cover, and cook stirring occasionally until the vegetables are tender. Add ghee and sugar, increase the heat to high, and cook for 2 minutes. Serve.
