Sometimes in life, it really is the simple things that can make us happy. Particularly when that simple thing doesn’t cost a lot and can last a long, long time — sort of like the mythical Everlasting Gobstopper of Willy Wonka fame.
However, unlike the fictional candy that could last a lifetime, there actually is an unsung hero in winedom that provides a lot of pleasure for a long time. And while it won’t last as long as a Gobstopper, it should get you through the week. I am referring to, of course, the renowned red elixir of Portugal — port.
While wine had been an important part of the Portuguese culture since the first century B.C., the invention of port wines began in the 17th century when Great Britain declared war on France, thus cutting off their supply of fine wine. The British promptly turned to Portugal, where they decided to add brandy to barrels of wine during fermentation in order to preserve it and keep it fresh for its long journey down the Douro River to the port town of Oporto. This “fortification” (today, a neutral grape spirit known as aguardente in used) stopped the fermentation process, resulting in higher levels of residual sugar in the wine. The end result was a sweet, heady wine with higher alcohol levels that nicely countered the prominent dark fruit flavors.
Port is not a grape or a place, but rather takes its name from the city of Oporto that is situated at the mouth of the Douro River. The grapes used in port wines are grown in the Douro Valley, about 65 miles upriver from the port city. This remote appellation hugs the formidable Serra do Marao mountain range. The valley’s widest point is no more than 16 miles across and the rocky terrain is home to more than 100 different types of grapes that can be used to make port. However, the three most popular varietals are Tinto Roriz, Touriga Nacional and Touriga Franca.
There are several different styles of red port wine. The four most popular include tawny, port wines with indication of age, vintage port and late bottled vintage port.
Tawny ports are aged in wooden casks and are the product of several blends (to maintain a consistent “house” style). Port wines with indication of age are usually tawny wines that are “better-than-average” as approved by the Port Wine Institute. They will denote a bottling date along with an indication of their character by the age on the label: 10 years old, 20 years old, 30 years old and 40 years old. The most well known style of port wines is vintage ports, which account for only 2 percent of all port wine produced. Since port houses only make vintage ports in the best years, when they “declare” it worthy, the wines are eagerly sought after by collectors and can be expensive.
However, one of the best values in port wine are late bottled vintage ports. These wines are produced in a good quality year from a single harvest and are bottled approximately between the fourth and sixth year of age. The label will show not only the year of the harvest but also the date of bottling and the designation LBV.
Best of all, these wines do not have to be consumed immediately after opening the bottle. Thanks to the fortification process, LBV ports can be enjoyed up to a week after opening. And since a little goes a long way, just like the Gobstopper, they provide a lot of pleasure for a very long time. Retail prices are approximate.
2003 Dows LBV, Douro Valley, Portugal ($16)
A wonderful value in LBV, this port has a splendid nose of concentrated black plum aromas. The ripe blackberry and red plum fruit flavors on the rounded palate leads to a long finish featuring hints of cocoa.
1998 Quinto Noval LBV Douro Valley, Portugal ($20)
The nose accentuates scents of black plums, dark cherries and red fruits. On the palate the full-bodied wine cascades over the tongue with flavors of blackberry, black plum and spicy cinnamon. The balanced, elegant finish provides just a hint of licorice at the end.
2003 Graham’s LBV, Douro Valley, Portugal ($23)
The fragrant bouquet possesses delightful scents of ripe blackberry fruit and licorice. The palate has warm flavors of black plum and black cherry fruit on a complex frame. The lengthy finish has remarkable depth and structure. Enjoy with a wedge of Stilton or Roquefort blue cheese.
2001 Ramos Pinto LBV, Douro Valley, Portugal ($25)
Prominent notes of dark cherry and blackberry aromas dominate the nose. The rounded palate has great intense dark fruit flavors with nice depth and good complexity. A perfect pairing with desserts featuring dark chocolate.
