When I mentioned to my wine-savvy friends that I had recently tasted several remarkable white wines from the Soave DOC region of Italy, they all looked at me like I was “pazzo.” No, I had not lost my mind — nor my palate — but, in fact, the wines of Soave, I informed my skeptical posse, have come a long, long way since the first iteration of those wines hit the American shores in brown clay bottles in the 1970s.
One of the reasons for the remarkable transformation in quality is due, in part, to Stefano Inama, proprietor of Inama Azienda Agricola in Soave, Italy. Stefano asserts that, “Most people in the world want predictable wines. I want to make wines that are different, and wines that taste different from year to year.”
This is a big change in the world of mass-produced wines where consistency — good or bad — is the name of the game. But with vineyard holdings located on Monte Foscarino, in the heart of the renowned Soave Classico district in Veneto, Inama is considered a vibrant voice and independent thinker.
Inama’s father, Giuseppe Inama, founded the estate in the 1960s, acquiring a total of 70 acres in the most enviable sites in the region. In 1992, Stefano assumed control of the winemaking operations where he concentrated on researching newer winemaking practices and viticultural improvements, including canopy management that maximizes the concentration of fruit while retaining the grapes’ distinctive qualities and reflect the best characters of the terroir. The region’s classic varietal, Garganega, has long been considered a white wine grape that is capable of making just so-so wine, but with Stefano’s attention to detail, he has proven that these wines can, indeed, be remarkable.
Part of Stefano’s success is his ability to take advantage of the unique terroir in his vineyards. The rich volcanic soil in the Soave Classico area imparts a signature floral aroma on the bouquet and a distinct almond character on the palate. In addition, Inama manipulates the wine as little as possible. Even though his winery is completely modern, intervention during the winemaking process is kept to a minimum. In order to preserve both the aromatic intensity and natural balance, the wines are bottled with minimum filtration and fining.
Inama also grows traditional Bordeaux varietals (cabernet sauvignon and merlot) in the Colli Berici — a little known area south of Vicenza, that has been blessed with a temperate climate and soil rich in trace elements and minerals (thanks to unique ancient geological volcanic ridges). Inama feels that this terroir is the most underrated and under-utilized in Italy and has made it his goal to produce great wines from these hillsides. In addition, Stefano has also chosen to focus on perfecting wine made from Carmenere — a grape varietal typically associated with production in Chile.
But for now, his Soave Classico wines has set a new standard to replace an old perception. Retail prices are approximate.
The 2008 Inama Vin Soave Classico is made 100 percent from the garganega grapes that come from 30 year old vines in vineyards located in the Soave and Monteforte d’Alpone regions of Veneto. After crush, the juice is fermented and aged in stainless steel tanks for eight months. The wine offers up a floral nose of sweet field flowers such as chamomile and iris while the flavor profile yields lightly textured notes of green apple, nectarine, and hints of lemon on the crisp finish. At $15 a bottle, it is a delightfully simple wine to enjoy with white-fleshed fish and chicken.
Stefano makes another garganega-based wine with grapes from the exclusive Monte Foscarino vineyard. The 2007 Inama Vigneti di Foscarino Soave Classico is made in a similar fashion as the traditional Vin Soave, however, the fermentation occurs in older barriques — a 59 gallon oak barrel coveted for its ideal surface area-to-volume ratio — that imparts very little oak influence. During the next seven months, the wine is gently stirred every six weeks in order to incorporate the yeast and other sediments. This $24 wine is more intense than its sibling mentioned above, with a bouquet of fresh flowers and herbs. The firm structure supports flavors of lemon, Marcona almonds and fresh herbs with nice, crisp acidity on the finish.
The pride of the Soave collection is the 2007 Inama Du Lot Soave Classico. The wine is produced in a similar fashion as the Foscarino, but it is fermented and aged using 30 percent new oak barriques. This results in a wine with a deeper golden color and a nose featuring oak-influenced scents of creamy vanilla that meld with the characteristic floral bouquet. The structure is rich and round in the mouth and accents the lovely flavors of pear, nectarine and roasted almonds. The creamy, lemony finish lasts for almost a minute. This $30 wine would be perfect with a grilled pork chop
