In Italy, when one says sante, a glass of Prosecco better be in tow — or more aptly, in hand. For the Italians, a glass of Prosecco is the unofficial way to kick off a night of gastronomical festivities. It’s also becoming more popular in the United States, but what’s it all about?
Prosecco is actually a grape that is native to Friuli, but it is now the pride of the Veneto region of Italy. While Amarone and Soave are the more famous wines from this region, Prosecco’s home in the Valdobbiadene and Conegliano appellations is actually much closer to Venice. Prosecco can be made into a still wine, but this crisp, white grape is usually turned into bubbly. It is without a doubt the highest quality “charmat” method sparkling wine to be found, meaning that the secondary fermentation occurs in tank, not bottle. Prosecco can be “frizzante,” with a slight sparkle, or “spumante,” which is more effervescent.
Light-bodied, Prosecco has an almond-like flavor often with mineral, pear and apple nuances. It is one of the more reasonably priced styles of sparkling wine to be found, yet there are some extremely well-made, unusually complex examples priced more like Champagne. Let’s try a small but well-represented range.
Prosecco di Conegliano e Valdobbiadene Brut Spumante, Zardetto (suggested retail $9):
This is one of the larger Prosecco producers, yet the quality remains consistently good. It has remained in the hands of the Zardetto family, who began making wine commercially 35 years ago. It is light-bodied with a soft mousse and delicate almond and apple flavors.
Prosecco di Conegliano e Valdobbiadene, “Bosco di Gica,” Brut Spumante, Adami ($15):
Adami has been one of the most recognized Prosecco producers since the 1930s, yet it is not very well-known here. Clean, crisp and fresh, with chamomile and golden delicious apple flavors, it is a perfect aperitif.
Prosecco di Conegliano e Valdobbiadene, “Cartizze,” Brut Spumante, Bisol, 2005 ($33):
The Bisol family is one of 120 families that own vineyards in Cartizzi. It is the highest in the appellation. The Bisol family has been making wine since the late 1800s, and even though it has grown, it has retained a familia feeling, with the various family members taking on different roles. This is a delicious, elegant Prosecco, with almonds, vanilla cream, apple and a delightfully long finish.
