The original Café Salsa, in Old Town Alexandria, got off the ground early this decade, one of the original contributors to the historic neighborhood’s dining revolution. It’s still going strong seven-plus years later, but recently, the owners set their sights on another hot ’hood: the Logan Circle/14th Street area, which positively booms these days with funky bars and accomplished food (and young politicos). But their formula is still the same: cuisine that melds Caribbean and South American flavors influences a winning cocktail list and an inviting, neighborhood-friendly vibe.
The Scene: Loud is the best word to describe both the visual and the volume on weekends. Late Sunday nights were appropriately hushed, but thanks to lots of hard surfaces, the noise-level skyrockets when the tables are full. Bright, modern paintings, pendant lamps and flat-screen TVs above the bar punctuate the deep red walls in the long, narrow first floor. A quaint lounge greets you at the top of the stairs, followed by a series of small, eclectically decorated dining rooms. If you are seeking lively, the weekend ambiance here will fit the bill.
The Pour: Classic tropical cocktails such as mojitos, caipirinhas and margaritas are the focus behind the bar, although the sangria — filled with fruit and packing a healthy kick — would be my first choice. An unexceptional handful of wines by the glass, primarily from South America and Spain, leads me to choose a beer with my meals, especially when I can try one from Peru, Guatemala or Colombia.
The Taste: Like many Nuevo Latino menus, this one attempts to span a variety of cultures and countries. Here, authenticity is paramount. A few items you may recognize, like the classic ropa vieja — shredded beef with peppers, tomatoes and Latin spices — or the smooth, fresh guacamole, served here with flour tortillas instead of chips. The real pleasure, however, lies in those items you may never have tried. Take the Alcapurrias de Mar, a “national dish of Puerto Rico” that comprises green bananas stuffed with shellfish and cilantro-jalapeño salsa. Puerto Rican cuisine proves another winner in the piononos — ropa vieja wrapped in plantains, with melted mozzarella and pineapple salsa. For a Cuban flavor, try the masitas criollas — marinated pork, roasted and served with Spanish onions and Cuban black beans.
The Touch: Service here isn’t what you’d call efficient. On my first visit, my companion and I nearly walked out, it took so long to be greeted. On a separate visit, flagging down the waiter for the check was a half-hour challenge. But if you’re not in a hurry, you may enjoy the gracious staff, who are happy to help you navigate the menu.
Don’t Miss: The ginger-and-lime-infused ceviche is healthy, delicious and, above all, unique.
Why You Won’t Go: Because you like some privacy with your dinner. Most of the first-floor seating consists of one long banquette, and the tables can feel a bit squished together. You’ll find a bit more intimacy upstairs, if it’s open.
Why You Will Go: To taste some winning representations of cuisine that sometimes gets short shrift in our area.
If you go
Café Salsa
1712 14th St., NW
202-588-5286
cafesalsagrill.com
Hours: 11:30 a.m. to 11 p.m. Sunday-Wednesday; 11:30 a.m. to midnight Thursday-Saturday
Prices: Appetizers — $6.95 to $9.95; Entrees — $11.95 to $23.95
Bottom Line: A hot neighborhood gets a Nuevo Latino addition, where the scene is equal to the cooking.
