In colonial times, the fruit shrub was a favorite concoction, blended with sparkling water to make thirst-quenching summer drinks, or poured over meats as a marinade or cooking sauce. In his 1861 novel, “Elsie Venner,” American jurist Oliver Wendell Holmes wrote, ” … ‘but I do feel thirsty,’ said the poor lady, ‘and I do think a glass of shrub would do my throat good; it’s dreadful dry.'”
Shrubs are made by preserving fresh fruit in vinegar and adding sweetener to create a concentrated syrup. The result is intensely sweet and fruity, with a surprising kick of tartness.
About 20 years ago, the folks at Tait Farm Foods in Centre Hall, Pa., developed shrubs as a response to a bumper crop of raspberries. They had to tinker with the recipes left behind by hostesses like Martha Washington, but they eventually came up with a line of five flavors: cherry, raspberry, ginger, cranberry and strawberry.
Today, Tait Farm continues to be the only commercial producer of shrubs. The syrups are served and sold at restaurants like City Tavern in Philadelphia and in the gift shops of Colonial Williamsburg. Shrubs are the most popular of about 50 products sold through www.taitfarmfoods.com, said company principal Kim Tait.
“It’s a wonderful mixer,” said Tait. Shrubs add interest to iced tea and lemonade and can be mixed with gin, vodka and wine to create interesting cocktails.
In Baltimore, Tait Farm shrubs can be bought at Smedly’s Cafe in Fells Point, where chef-owner Helena Williams has found a variety of uses for them.
“Besides making a refreshing drink, I also use the shrubs in my cooking quite a bit,” said Williams. “My ginger chicken dishes are made with ginger shrub. I also make raspberry salad dressings all of the time. Shrub can be used similar to wine, to deglaze pans and add interest to sauces.”
(Courtesy Tait Farm Foods)
» Serves 6 to 8
6-8 ripe pears
1/3 cup Tait Farm Ginger Shrub
Pinch of cinnamon
1 cup quick-cooking oats
1 cup flaked coconut
1/2 cup brown sugar
1/2 cup flour
1/3 cup butter, softened
» To make the topping: Using your hands or a pastry cutter, work together the oatmeal, brown sugar, flour and butter until it is crumbly and holds together somewhat. Add the coconut. Combine well and set aside. To prepare the pears: In a bowl, combine the ginger shrub with the pinch of cinnamon. Peel, core and slice the pears (as for apple pie) into the bowl with the shrub, tossing to coat them from time to time. (The shrub will keep the pears from turning brown.) Turn the pear mixture into a buttered, shallow baking dish, approximately 9-by-13. Sprinkle the crumb topping evenly over the top. Bake in a preheated 350-degree oven for 30 minutes or until topping is golden and the filling is bubbly around the sides. Serve warm with vanilla ice cream.
