Bill Blatch, a well-respect negociant and trusted wine adviser in Bordeaux, France, recently passed through D.C. on his “retirement” tour. For years, Bill has not only kept friends and colleagues informed about the best wines in Bordeaux, but he has developed an almost cult-like following for his extraordinarily in-depth annual vintage reports of the region. One of the things that really sunk in during our last meeting was the fact that — to the best of Bill’s records — the past decade (2000 to 2009) is the first time that Bordeaux did not experience any “off” vintages. Not a single one.
And, according to Blatch, 2009 seems to be the best of the bunch, with a perfect combination of a gentle, cool winter, a warm spring with the perfect amount of rainfall that resulted in model budding and flowering, and an even rise in temperature throughout the summer months. The latter provided just the right amount of sunshine and warmth to lead to perfect phenolic ripening — a term that refers to the changes in the tannins in the seeds and skin — and an ideal concentration of sugar levels in the fruit. As a result, both red and white grapes developed beautiful flavors that made spectacular wines. The bad news: Wine prices for this vintage have pushed the limits of most consumer’s budgets. But, as with all things Bordeaux, buying these wines now to enjoy five to ten years down the road could actually be a tasteful investment.
Here are a few of my favorites that I had the opportunity to sample at last week’s Heart’s Delight Wine Tasting and Auction that featured Bordeaux wines from the 2009 vintage. Retail prices are approximate.
Rochet takes its name from the rocks that are found in the limestone subsoil that creates the landscape of the vineyards found on the property of Lafon-Rochet in the Saint-Estephe appellation. The 2009 Chateau Lafon-Rochet ($55) is made up mostly of cabernet sauvignon with a quarter of merlot and then smidges of petite verdot and cabernet franc blended in. The nose is full of bright cherry and smoky cedar that leads to flavors of dark black fruit, plum and dark cherry on the beautifully balanced palate. Soft tannins hold up the long finish where hints of earthy minerals linger for over half a minute.
Rauzan-Segla, located in the Margaux appellation, has always been known as a high-end “Second Growth” Bordeaux property, but it really stepped up its game — and the quality of its wines — when the House of Chanel took over as new owners in 1994. Since then, pardon the pun, they have been making fashionable wines. The 2009 Chateau Rauzan-Segla ($99) cabernet sauvignon-based wine has a healthy dose of merlot blended in and has a nose that shows off scents of violets and red cherry. The charming mouthfeel is delicate but delivers plenty of dark and red fruit flavors across the entire palate. A touch of Indian spice and minerality on the long, clean finish is charming and memorable.
The vineyard of Lynch-Bages is spread across the gravelly plateau of the town of Bages, in the Pauillac appellation and has long been a favorite among collectors (myself included). The 2009 Chateau Lynch-Bages, Pauillac ($179) is one of the best wines I have ever had from this chateau. Made from mostly cabernet sauvignon, this wine exudes a sense of power and charm in every sip. From the aromatic scents of blackberry, dark plum and earthy tones to the silky-smooth layered flavors of rich cassis, blackberry, black cherry and rich mocha, this is a wine that seduces the palate. Firm tannins and abundant acidity keep this wine in perfect balance, with a long, well-delineated finish.
I have had the pleasure of knowing Daniel and Florence Cathiard, owners of the lovingly renovated Chateau Smith Haut Lafitte, for over a decade, so I am thrilled that their 2009 Chateau Smith Haut Lafitte ($179) is getting so much attention. Flavors of dark plum, smoky cassis, blackberry jam and roasted coffee all compete for space on the palate, but it is the remarkable balance between tannins, fruit and acidity that makes this a near-perfect wine. The seductive and delightful finish persists for well over a minute, leaving an indelible memory on the tongue.
