A Georgetown oasis

Who among us does not suffer from a touch of wanderlust at any time of year? Now, you can travel to exotic ports and sample eclectic fare. All this without leaving the comforts of Washington.

» The venue

Since its opening in Georgetown several years ago, Mie N Yu has enjoyed a reputation for its extravagant — if not offbeat — décor and eclectic menu, featuring contemporary American dishes inspired by all the cuisines found along the ancient Silk Road.

Both lunch and dinner menus are fairly extensive, and offer such rare culinary glimpses into exotic worlds as a grilled calamari salad and Szechuan pepper-dusted ahi tuna in the evening, and midday, some of the same starters, but with a fair play of sandwiches such as the Moroccan meatballs, a roll and a Cuban pork sandwich.

» The atmosphere

Because of its overtly international tone, you won’t be shocked to find Mie N Yu’s dining areas divided by country: a Turkish Tent, a Moroccan Bazaar, a “birdcage” chef’s table suspended over one of the dining areas, and the Hong Kong bar with its nightly DJ, to name a few.

With any luck, or by simply asking the hostess, you may end up in the dark, seductive Turkish room with its banquettes, carpets laid out on the dark plank floors, colorful wall hangings that “tent” the room, and loads of pillows on the banquettes for reclining between courses. It’s both charming and relaxing, convincing you perhaps that you could laze away the afternoon over cups of the restaurant’s unique and bracing French-press coffee.

» The food and drink

With their interplay of flavors and textures, the various elements of the menu seem to work in harmony. Take the crab pot stickers as starters. A creamy crabmeat filling comes wrapped in the typical dumpling wrapper, and might be bland, except for the dollop of fiery Chinese mustard for dipping. Use this sparingly, or you may singe your hair. In a cinnamon-scented sauce and topped by melting goat cheese, the Moroccan meatballs are earthy and delicious, and would be excellent on their own.

» The last word

Engaging décor with a menu to match, Mie N Yu deserves several repeat trips so you can get a full dose of chef Tim Elliot’s cooking skills. You’ll leave thinking: So much food, so little time.

If you go

» Mie N Yu

3125 M St. NW Washington

Single entrée price range: $18 to $35, more for shared entrées

Info: 202-333-6122,

http://www.mienyu.com

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