Larry Ponzi once earned his paycheck as the culinary director at the Smithsonian. But in 2007, he traded that life to follow his passion: pizza. Café Pizzaiolo opened to rave reviews in Crystal City, an area that lacked many respectable pies. So late last year, Ponzi expanded his burgeoning Italian empire with a second location in Del Ray. Its strip-mall surroundings belie its culinary aspirations — its neighbors are the well-respected Bombay Curry Company and Del Merei Grille.
The Scene: Pizzaiolo comprises two rooms. The café, to the right, is a do-it-yourself décor special, featuring walls painted red and sage, spray-painted light fixtures and chalkboards — telling of the day’s beer, wine and dessert selections — cleverly recessed into the walls. At any time of day, you can find some of Del Ray’s young families congregating here. On the left, you’ll find the bar area, quite a bit darker with TVs, high-top tables and, for a few more months anyway, smoking!
The Pour: Not much to remark on here except for the standards — about five red and white wines each available by the glass and a decent selection of draft beer, highlighted by Blue Moon and Dogfish Head 60 Minute IPA.
The Taste: Ponzi eschews a wood-burning oven in favor of gas, but he makes up for it by offering two distinct styles of pies under one roof: Neapolitan, with a little olive oil in the crust and topped with fresh mozzarella, tomato and basil; and New York, which is thinner and topped with tomato and fresh mozzarella. The former is the more “gourmet” of the two. You’ll find it topped with feta, spinach, red onion or pesto sauce, to name a few options. The New York style will be familiar to anyone who’s frequented a Manhattan pizza parlor. It’s pleasantly greasy, and while you can order it up with prosciutto and arugula, you’re better off with spicy Italian sausage and roasted peppers.
Pastas also hew to the Italian-American norm. Try the baked penne with roasted vegetables and that familiar crust of melted mozzarella or a rich lasagna Bolognese.
The Touch: Service here is mom-and-pop pleasant, so while it may not be terribly efficient, you won’t mind.
Don’t Miss: One of Ponzi’s oven-toasted subs for a quick bite. In a city generally bereft of the Italian-American staple, his meatball sub, boasting tangy, slightly acidic tomato sauce and mozzarella on a toasted ciabatta roll, sets a new standard.
Why You Won’t Go
: The pizza is more than adequate, but not worth a trip on the Beltway. Some of the toppings faltered (the prosciutto was too tough to chew on one outing). It’s a good price-to-quality ratio. But if the trip costs you more than a few bucks in gas money, stay closer to home.
Why You Will Go: Whether you have kids or friends in tow, it’s nice to head out knowing that good service and reliable offerings lie ahead. You will never have a bad meal at Café Pizzaiolo, even if every outing isn’t perfect.
If you go
Pizzaiolo Café & Bar
3112 Mt. Vernon Ave., Alexandria
703-837-0666
cafepizzaiolo.com
Hours: 11 a.m. to 9:30 p.m. Monday-Thursday, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Friday-Saturday, noon to 9 p.m. Sunday
Prices: Appetizers $3.50 to $9.50; pasta $9.95 to 13.95; pizza $8.50 to $17.95
Bottom Line: A recession-friendly eatery where New York-style pizza and pasta are the draws.
