The local Great American Restaurants chain has been turning out fun casual food for 20 years in Northern Virginia, from Carlyle in Shirlington to Coastal Flats in Fairfax and McLean, and a handful of other solid performers.
But for its latest concept, the restaurant group turned inward to honor one of its own: Bill Jackson, its longtime corporate chef, who died nearly a year ago.
The Scene: Midcentury chic is the theme here in this massive, sunken dining room. Chrome lights hang from the ceilings, and a large mural features the Little Rascals, along with Jackson himself. The all-booth seating means very few bad tables.
The Pour: The wine list fits on one page, and most of the selections fit comfortably within the $40-to-$60 range. There are some deals to be had as well. Ferrari-Carano chardonnay for $39 or Joseph Phelps cabernet for $78? Sign me up. In the bar, you might be better off sampling from the array of tap beers.
The Taste: In keeping with the throwback theme, the dishes that work best are those that toe the American comfort food line. Think grouper fingers in beer batter, deviled eggs with spiced pecans and sugar-cured bacon, mac ‘n’ cheese with lobster, a solid burger, and respectable crab cakes. Other selections are a bit too all over the map, from the French-inspired steak frites to the miso-glazed black cod and the Hong Kong-style sea bass. Inconsistency shows in the results, but no more so than with the sushi selections, where I’ve had less-than-fresh fish and rolls that like to fall apart before they get to your mouth.
The Touch: As with other Great American establishments, management places a premium on service, and it shows. Servers are prompt, cheerful and knowledgeable about the menu — so much so that it can sometimes feel as if they’re reading a script in their heads.
Don’t Miss: The decadent desserts, such as chocolate waffles or lemon-marshmallow-meringue pie.
Why You Won’t Go: Because you’re looking for brunch on the weekends. It’s inexplicable why a restaurant that serves comfort food in a suburban neighborhood such as this can’t fire up a few egg dishes on a Sunday morning.
Why You Will Go: To catch the game. Flat-screen TVs fill the large, comfy bar area, known as Lucky Lounge.
If you go
Jackson’s Mighty Fine Food
11927 Democracy Drive, Reston
703-437-0800
greatamericanrestaurants.com/
Hours: 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Sunday to Thursday; 11 a.m. to midnight Friday and Saturday
Prices: Appetizers $5.50-$12; entrees $9.50-$25
Bottom Line: Another welcome culinary addition to Reston Town Center, this one focuses on American classics in a welcoming setting.
