North of Los Angeles, situated between the split pea soup capital of Solvang and the sand dunes of Pismo Beach lies the American Viticultural Appellation of Santa Maria Valley in Santa Barbara County. It is also the home of Cambria Winery, where renowned constitutional law lawyer, Barbara Banke, has been producing chardonnay, pinot noir, and syrah varietals for more than 20 years. The Cambria estate sits on a unique plot of land on the Santa Maria bench where it is defined by four distinct regions. The estate takes great care to maximize the specific properties of each parcel’s unique soil composition and microclimate in order to produces wines that emphasize the best characteristics of each vineyard location.
For example, Katherine’s Vineyard has shallow, porous, well-draining soils with southern exposure and Pacific Ocean influences.
Julia’s Vineyard boasts well-drained, alluvial sandy-loam soil that is planted with rows running east-west at an elevation of approximately 500 feet. The Tepusquet Vineyard, the site of a prehistoric river bed, has sandy, porous and well-draining soil. Lastly, the Bench Break Vineyard sits on the highest point of the winery on shallow soils formed from Monterey shale and quartz.
Viticultural techniques used to take advantage of the Santa Maria Bench include leaf thinning, minimal irrigation, and green fruit pruning — a method where unripe grapes are removed from the vine early in the season — allow the fruit to ripen evenly throughout the season and concentrate flavors in the berries.
California native and a graduate of California State Polytechnic University in San Luis Obispo — where she received her bachelor of science degree in dietetics and food administration — Denise Shurtleff originally began as the assistant winemaker of Cambria Winery in 1999 and was subsequently promoted to winemaker in 2003. Denise has a passion about making wines that please the palate and the pocketbook. A wife and mother to two active teenage sons, Denise is at home in both the vineyard and her five-acre property where she grows her own fruits and vegetables.
Denise recently visited the Washington, D.C., area on a promotional tasting tour of her affordably priced white and red wines. Scott and I had the pleasure of tasting through the portfolio with Denise along with grilled salmon, oven roasted root vegetables and a crisp apple tart. All of her wines were food friendly and extremely versatile. Retail prices are approximate.
2006 Cambria Katherine’s Chardonnay, Santa Maria Valley, Calif. ($20)
The bouquet is full of ripe apple, peach and vanilla aromas with hints of citrus underneath. The palate features abundant flavors of ripe peach, white nectarine, grapefruit and orange blossom with notes of toasted oak on the crisp finish. Lingering hints of nutmeg makes a superb impression.
2005 Cambria Bench Break Chardonnay, Santa Maria Valley, Calif. ($25)
Sweet notes of buttered toast and citrus on the nose lead to wonderfully rich flavors of pear, peach, nectarine and citrus flavors on the palate. A mineral-based frame supports the flavors over the entire palate and end beautifully on a crisp finish buoyed by vanilla, clove and nutmeg.
2007 Cambria Viognier Tepusquet, Santa Maria Valley, Calif. ($20)
A personal favorite, this Rhone varietal shines with aromas of orange blossoms and citrus notes on the aromatic nose. The palate exudes lovely peach, orange and apricot flavors on a richly textured body. The abundant acidity provides a crisp finish that features notes of vanilla and orange clove honey at the very end.
2006 Cambria Julia’s Vineyard Pinot Noir, Santa Maria Valley, Calif. ($23)
Because the grapes are grown at the cooler western end of the estate where the fruit gets to ripen a bit longer, the wine displays very fresh, fruit-driven qualities with loads of strawberry, cherry and cranberry flavors that coat the palate. Notes of cinnamon and baking spices blend in on the satiny-smooth finish where just a touch of mineral provides a nice counterbalance.
2005 Cambria Syrah Tepusquet, Santa Maria Valley, Calif. ($20)
Another Rhone Valley varietal, this version is grown on one of the oldest vineyards in California (more than 150 years old) and produces a wine that explodes with scents of wild blueberry, dark cherry and black pepper on the nose. Firm tannins support concentrated flavors of blueberry, cherry cola, vanilla and cinnamon across the palate. Notes of tobacco and cedar round out the long, well-balanced finish.
2005 Late Harvest Viognier, Santa Maria Valley, Calif. ($20 half bottle)
What a pleasant surprise, this lovely dessert wine was the hit of the evening. Beautiful aromas of apricot, orange blossom and honeysuckle dominate the bouquet. Mouth-watering flavors of honeyed-orange, white nectarine, apricot and peach glide across the tongue on a richly textured frame. The noticeable acidity keeps all of the flavors in balance and light and bright on the lingering finish. A real treat with the apple tart.
