Where did the year go? Seriously. I want to know. Somehow, in the last 12 months, I have managed to gain weight, lose hair, win dares, lose bets, find peace and lose my mind. All of this while tasting more than a thousand samples of wine. Some good. Some not so good. But every wine that I, well, actually we (my spouse and co-author graciously tagged along for many of the palate-centric experiences), tasted provided a frame of reference for other wines and expanded our thirst for knowledge.
The good news is tasting all of those wines has actually helped me hone my own ever-changing palate and discover what it is that I love — and hate — about wine. And, as I do every time this year, I vow to drink, as oppose to “taste,” better wines. But it’s not as easy as one might think. Occasionally the wine sample queue gets a bit long, so I find myself getting into a routine of taste-swish-spit-rinse-write, taste-swish-spit-rinse-write. So it is understandable that I sometimes forget to literally stop and smell the Flowers (love their Camp Meeting Ridge chardonnay).
Don’t get me wrong. I am indeed grateful for the opportunity to taste so many wines and even more grateful for the good fortune I have had to meet many of the wonderful people who make, produce, import, distribute and sell these wines. It’s just that I am going to make a more conscientious effort to enjoy more of the wines I like instead of just putting them on the proverbial treadmill (speaking of which, there is another New Year’s resolution that comes to mind, but that one is too painful to think about in this column).
So this year, my New Year’s resolution is to enjoy, I mean really, thoroughly enjoy, great wines without taking notes or looking for imperfections. Just to relax and take pleasure in the wine. I already have a good start, thanks to several friends who have opened up their homes and cellars this holiday season (and a few of those gems are listed below). Retail prices are approximate.
Non-Vintage Montaudon Brut, Champagne, France ($30)
As I mentioned in a previous column, I don’t drink enough Champagne just for the heck of it. Well, this well-priced beauty is going to help me change that. This is a full-bodied Champagne with scents of apple, honeysuckle and baked bread on the bouquet that leads to crisp, focused flavors of white nectarine, honey, apricot and pear on the palate. There is just a touch of sweetness on the well-balanced finish where hints of buttered toast adds to the delectable finish.
2006 Worthy “Sophia’s Cuvee” Red Wine Blend, Napa Valley, Calif. ($29)
One of my favorite “special everyday” red wines, this may very well be one of the best values coming out of Napa Valley. Wine entrepreneur Gus Kalaris produces a heady wine with a complex bouquet of blackberry, cassis, dark cocoa and plum. Full-throttled flavors of blackberry, black cherry and hints of vanilla are well-balanced over the entire palate. Prominent notes of coffee and mocha slide in on the lengthy finish.
2006 John Duval Entity Shiraz, Barossa Valley, Australia ($40)
John Duval is the former winemaker at Penfolds where he was responsible for producing the legendary Grange Shiraz from 1986 to 2002. Today, John is making his own wines and they are probably the best-kept secret — and value — in high-end shiraz. The Entity offers up a perfumed bouquet of blueberry liqueur, blackberry, smoke and black pepper. Flavors of blackberry, cassis, blueberry and smoked meats fills the full-throttled palate. Hints of Asian spices and pepper round out the powerful-yet-elegant finish.
2007 Ken Wright McCrone Vineyard Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, Ore. ($50)
Ken Wright has a way of imparting a sense of “place” to his pinot noir wines. The McCrone Vineyard is located in the Yamhill-Carlton District of the Willamette Valley and is known for producing wines that are powerful and fruit-driven. Packed with loads of concentrated fruit — including dark cherries, black raspberries and ripe strawberries — this wine also has excellent structure. Hints of orange peel and cinnamon glide in on the long, luxurious finish to add balance and depth.
2007 Vieux Telegraphe, Chateauneuf du Pape, France ($64)
There is a limited window of opportunity to enjoy this wine now before it “shuts down,” so my strategy is to buy a case and drink three or four bottles during the next year and then leave the balance alone for another five years. Today, this wine has a traditional bouquet of dark cherry, ripe plums and black pepper. The round mouthfeel delivers flavors of rich cassis, black fruit, black olives and black licorice in layers across the palate with hints of spicy pepper on the full-bodied finish.
Have a happy and healthy New Year — and I hope you have a chance to splurge on some remarkable wines in 2010.
