Settling comfortably into one of the restaurant’s chairs, Vikram Sunderam, executive chef of the fashionably popular Rasika in Washington, ponders how his life took this culinary turn of events.
Hired from London’s award-winning Bombay Brasserie two years ago for his current position, Sunderam says that as a teen, a culinary career was the furthest choice among his options. Instead, he had dreamt of becoming an engineer or physician, but when he joined with school chums in applying to a local culinary school, he was quickly admitted into its program. “I never thought I would do this,” he says, but adds that he is very happy with the way his life has worked out. “That was my first introduction to the culinary arts, and it was fun. I took a liking to cooking more than to the hospitality or service aspects of the field.”
A native of Bombay, India, Sunderam guesses that he inherited some of his mother’s cooking genes, as she had earned a reputation as a fine home cook and was naturally proud that her son had chosen cooking as a profession. “When I started, I had to go through the training program which covered all aspects of the kitchen, from butchering onward,” he says. After graduation, Sunderam started working at the Taj Mahal Bombay, and after six years, he was moved around in the various Taj hotels, including heading to London with the Taj group.
From the beginning, his profession wasn’t just about Indian cooking, he says, though after about three years into his career, he began to specialize in Indian cuisine. “I really took a liking to it. It was hot to be an Indian chef, because Indian food was so popular. I then had a chance to go abroad [from India] and show my skills,” he says. Now proud of his own cuisine, he is pleased to show others all about the qualities of his native fare.
How does he feel about his move to Washington and this new, ultra-busy life? “I have no regrets,” he says. “Well, not yet. It is a tough job, and a demanding one. But by the grace of God, I have been lucky.”
In Sunderam’s Own Words
What is your favorite dish?
That depends on where I am eating. At home, I want simple, home-cooked food like lentils, bread and rice. Other than Indian food, I try out other cuisines to pick up ideas.
What is your cooking philosophy?
I like to serve wholesome, flavorful, healthful and delicious food. I use traditional recipes and methods, but I would like to take them to a different level. For example, in D.C., I am using halibut, black cod and wild boar instead of the traditional Indian meats. My wild boar vindaloo is based on a traditional Goan sauce, but the wild boar adds something special.
What ingredients are your staples?
With Indian cooking, I need an array of spices: cardamom, cloves, cinnamon, coriander, ginger, garlic. The list is endless because even a simple chicken curry require 10 to 15 items. Also onions and tomatoes, because they are widely used for making curries and sauces.
What’s in your fridge?
Not much. Eggs, bread, butter, milk.
What is your comfort food?
Something to nibble on, such as apples, carrots or celery.
What advice would you give home cooks?
When you are following a recipe, think of cooking as an art. … It’s an instinct. … When you are starting off in Indian cooking, you must know [certain things] like the oil needs to be hot before adding the whole spices to get the most aroma and flavor.
Rasika’s Lamb Roganjosh
Serves 4
Serve with Naan or Basmati rice
About 2 pounds onions
About 2 pounds tomatoes
1 cup vegetable oil
2 pounds diced lamb
1 tbsp. minced fresh ginger
10 cloves garlic, minced
4 pieces green cardamom, split open
4 whole cloves
One 1-inch piece stick cinnamon
1 tsp. cumin seeds
1 tsp. ground turmeric
1 tsp. red chili powder
2 tsp. ground coriander
1 cup plain yogurt, whisked
1 tsp. garam masala
Salt to taste
Chopped cilantro or julienned fresh ginger for garnish
Peel and slice the onions. Boil the tomatoes and blend to a fine paste. Blend the ginger and garlic to a fine paste with some water.
Heat the oil in a pot over medium heat, add the whole spices and cook until they crackle.
Add sliced onions, sauté until golden brown and add the ginger-garlic paste.
Cook until it changes color. Add the tomato paste and cook over low heat until it thickens and the oil separates from the sauce.
Add the powdered spices and sauté until they are blended in the sauce, then add the whisked yogurt. Add the lamb and salt to taste, cover the pot and cook over low heat for 45 minutes. Add some water if the sauce sticks to the pot. When the lamb is tender, stir in the garam masala. Before serving, garnish with freshly chopped cilantro or julienned fresh ginger.
