Some recoveries happen more quickly than others. A light scratch can heal overnight while a deep cut can take days or even weeks to repair. But when you are an innocent grape varietal, unfairly maligned at the expense of a Hollywood movie plot, well, it can take quite awhile to bounce back. Thus is the fate of merlot, whose character assassination was offered up as the antagonist in the 2004 movie, “Sideways.”
While the wine-themed tale of love and woe certainly helped bring Central Coast (California) wines — particularly pinot noir — into the spotlight, it is no secret that shortly following the movie’s release, sales of Merlot dropped more than 10 percent in the United States. Thanks, in part, to the now-famous quote were Paul Giamatti’s grouchy wine-putz-of-a-character, Miles, confides to his friend before a dinner-date, “If anyone orders Merlot, I’m leaving. I am not drinking any (explicative) Merlot.” Mark Oldman, author of “Oldman’s Guide to Outsmarting Wine” dubbed the phenomenon, “The ‘Sideways’ effect.” Fast-forward five years later, Merlot is thankfully on the mend and back on the shelves.
But the Merlot grape is used to fads. After all, it is one of the oldest documented grape varietals around, dating back to the first century. It’s also one of the most versatile red wine grapes. It can handle the spotlight as a solo act as well as share the stage where it can blend in as part of an ensemble cast. And while it has a thin skin that makes it vulnerable to early spring frosts and damage from hungry birds and insects, it can thrive in soil conditions too moist or too poor for other traditional red wine grape vines. It’s at home in Bordeaux — thought to be its original home — where it is coveted for its full, round-bodied qualities and abroad — particularly in California — where warm, sunnier climates bring out dark fruit and mocha characteristics.
Best of all, Merlot wines are built for springtime enjoyment. As the weather oscillates between warming up and cooling down, Merlot strikes the perfect balance. It’s rich and powerful enough to pair with hearty fare on a cool night and mellow enough chill out with on warm evenings while enjoying grilled salmon or tuna. It is the proverbial utility infielder of wine; versatile, invaluable to have in the line up and often taken for granted.
I, for one, am thrilled with Merlot’s recovery. I will no longer have to endure those “sideways” glances when I break out a bottle of marvelous, multitalented Merlot. And neither will you. Retail prices are approximate.
2006 Cellar No. 8 Merlot, California ($10)
A great value for a “house” Merlot. The majority of the grapes come from vineyards surrounding the Asti winery in Sonoma, but additional grapes are used from Alexander Valley and Napa Valley to add depth and flavor. Aromas of black cherry and cedar join flavors of black plum, mocha and roasted coffee on a well-rounded frame. The smooth, medium finish emphasizes notes of leather.
2006 Sean Minor Four Bears Merlot, Napa Valley, CA ($17)
A pretty-styled wine, this Merlot features scents of black plum, roses and chocolate on the fragrant bouquet. Flavors of dark plum, black cherry, spice and clove provide remarkable depth across the entire palate. The rich, lingering finish shows off touches of mineral and cocoa.
2005 Clos du Val Merlot, Napa Valley, CA ($26)
The complex nose features aromas of blackberry, cherry liqueur, black olives and sage. The palate is treated to layers of blackberry, dark plum, cocoa, pepper and clove with great balance and structure. The soft tannins provide a lush, elegant finish.
2005 Eagle’s Trace Merlot, Napa Valley, CA ($50)
This wine shows how big and ripe Merlot can be. It delivers aromas of blackberry, cedar, cinnamon, clove and red plum. The wine has good depth and concentration, with ripe flavors of blackberry, cassis, roasted coffee and cocoa. Notes of minerals and dark chocolate covered oranges round out the long, beautiful finish.
2005 Matanzas Creek Merlot Bennett Valley, Sonoma County, CA ($35)
I really like the merlots from Sonoma Valley. They seem to have a distinct aroma of fresh herbs, and this wine definitely expresses that characteristic on the nose, along with scents of clove and red berry. The soft tannins and beautiful balance accent flavors of blackberry, dark cherry, orange spice and black pepper.
2003 Etude Merlot, Sonoma Valley, California ($35)
Another great example from Sonoma, this version features aromas of blackberry, dark plum, black olive and dried spices. The forward flavors of black current, dark cherry, plum and roasted coffee strike a nice balance between richness and power. The sweet tannins keep the fruit in check and the structure in place. A touch of spice on the long finish adds a memorable touch.
