Baby, it’s cold outside. Winter has come to Washington with a vengeance. Even the snowmen my kids made last week want to come inside and warm up. I usually look forward to the cold weather each year so I can break out big red wines, but this winter, I think I’ll have to dig just a little deeper and find some really big red wines — the thermal underwear equivalent — to keep me company through this frigid frosting.
What is it about cold nights that beg for the company of big red wines? They just seem to go together. Like Simon and Garfunkel (am I dating myself?), they tend to make each other a little better for pairing. Personally, cold nights give me an excuse to hunker down and enjoy leisurely dinners with friends featuring hearty fare (my wife’s cassoulet is my favorite), warm crusty bread and long, stimulating conversations energized by bottles of red wine. I am convinced most of the world’s problems could be solved if people took time to sit down and share a glass — or two — of red wine and a plate of beef bourguignon.
However, finding the right big red takes a little bit of thought. After all — and no offense to the beauty and grace of pinot noir — most warm-your-toes reds need to have a little “chewiness” to them. Some of the essential qualities that I look for in winter reds include depth, structure and power. Big, full-bodied black fruit — such as blackberry, dark plum and cassis — usually supplies the power. Tannins provide structure while acidity keeps the wine balanced. Most “winter reds” will benefit from an hour or two in a decanter in order to soften the tannins and bring out the fruit.
One other trick, if you don’t have the time or patience to wait for the wine to soften, is to pair it with soft cheeses — such as brie or camembert — and bread. The milk fat in the cheese will soften the tannins and give provide a rounder mouthfeel to the wine.
Here are several big red wines that will warm your palate without melting your wallet. Retail prices are approximate.
2009 Acordeon Malbec, Mendoza, Argentina ($10)
A great value for a hot wine, the nose provides scents of dark fruit aromas with attractive notes of mint-chocolate. The mouthfeel is rich and lush, featuring black plum, dark cherry and cassis up front with hints of cocoa, tobacco and leather on the persistent finish.
2007 Greg Norman California Estates Petite Sirah, Paso Robles, Calif. ($14)
This legendary golfer/wine producer from the land down under has now expanded his empire into the rich soils of California. The wine features a nose of ripe black plums, creme de cassis and dark chocolate. The robust flavors of black cherry, jammy blueberry, mocha, and chocolate combine to give your tongue a warm treat. A whisper of pepper on the back of the tongue lends just a hint of spiciness to the finish.
2007 Quivira Petite Sirah, Wine Creek Ranch, Dry Creek Valley, Calif. ($26)
Winter is the perfect time to enjoy the teeth-staining joy of petite sirah. According to the producer, the 2007 vintage was “cool and long which extended the length of time the fruit could hang on the vine.” Stimulating aromas of boysenberry jam, roasted coffee and violets fill the glass while notable flavors of baked blueberries, jammy blackberries, ripe black cherries and mocha mingle on the tongue.
2007 Frank Family Vineyards Zinfandel, Dry Creek Valley, Calif. ($30)
This family-run estate makes an old-fashioned style zinfandel with bright aromas of juicy black cherries, fresh boysenberry and black raspberry. The rich palate is layered with intense flavors of blueberry, raspberry, Asian spices and dried sage. The finish features a touch of cloves and spicy pepper on the luscious finish.
2006 Bennett Lane “Maximus,” Napa Valley, Calif. ($35)
Each year, the winemaker at Bennett Lane creates a special blend from red varietals selected from vineyards located throughout Napa Valley. This full-bodied blend of cabernet sauvignon, merlot and syrah is an electric blanket for the palate. Aromas of dark plum, black cherry and hints of vanilla lead to weighty flavors of blackberry, cherry and cocoa on the palate. Warm waves of earthy cedar and pumpkin spices filter in on lengthy finish.
2005 Legaris Crianza, Ribera Del Duero, Spain ($68)
Made from the tinta fina (tempranillo) grape from estate vineyards, this traditional Spanish wine was made for winter. It has an expressive nose of black fruit, roasted coffee and red floral notes (think violet and rose petals). Flavors of dark cherry, black plum and smoked meat are supported by soft tannins that give the wine a round mouthfeel and lets the notes of toasted coconut (yes, coconut) and vanilla shine through on the finish.
