Spirits sales are up 75% over this time last year. Of course, this time last year, there were no stay-at-home orders. People have, not unreasonably, approached the endless lockdown as an opportunity to have a drink.
But what to drink? These are not days for Champagne, and, with the possibility of economic calamity looming, it may not be wise to be spending top dollar on anything at the liquor store. So, I thought I might suggest some inexpensive bottles that I have found deliver unexpected quality. I also asked some friends with extraordinary savvy in such matters to share their expertise. Here is our guide to drinking well while drinking on the cheap.
Bourbon
Evan Williams is a venerable brand that somehow got itself lodged in the bargain basement of the bourbon market, which is our good fortune. At less than $15 a bottle, Evan Williams Black Label would be a good value at twice the price. It’s first-rate in any classic cocktail that calls for American whiskey. It makes a fine Manhattan and, with summer approaching, an elegant mint julep.
Scotch
If money is tight, now may not be the time to explore the fascinating individuality to be discovered in the vast universe of single malts. This may be the time to try out the best blended Scotch whiskeys, which can be had for under $25. First, a couple to avoid: Skip Johnnie Walker Red Label, which isn’t a tenth of the whiskey that the Black Label is. Cutty Sark is thin and bland. Instead, give Famous Grouse a try. That said, there is one single malt priced like a blend, Glen Moray, and it is surprisingly good. As is often the case with Speyside malts, the best of the Glen Moray expressions is the “sherry cask-finished” version.
Rum
“I’ll cast my vote for El Dorado 3 Year,” said Wayne Curtis, author of the book And a Bottle of Rum: A History of the New World in 10 Cocktails. A Demerara rum from Guyana, El Dorado 3 Year Old can generally be found for under $20. “It’s got the robust, wood-and-char character of a far more expensive rum, and you have the feeling it could cuss pretty well,” Curtis said. “Makes a delightful rum Old-Fashioned or is perfectly fine by itself on a big ice cube.”
Vodka
Sorry, I don’t believe in vodka.
Brandy
“The least expensive cognacs are not, in my opinion, the best values,” said David Wondrich, senior drink columnist at the Daily Beast and author of the book Imbibe. “The best value I know in French brandy is found not in Cognac, but to the south in Armagnac.” He recommended Marie Duffau Napoleon Armagnac. It will set you back about $35, “hardly more than an immature V.S. cognac from one of the big producers.”
Gin
Boodles is not just my favorite cost-conscious gin; it’s one of my favorite gins. Open it, and you get a snootful of old-school juniper. Pair it with Dolin dry vermouth (alas, there aren’t any bargain vermouths that I can recommend), and you have the makings of a great martini.
House red wine
Karen MacNeil is the author of the best-selling wine book The Wine Bible and writes the winespeed.com newsletter. She sings the praises of the Spanish red, Cune Rioja Crianza 2016.
“Made from tempranillo grapes by the well-known producer Cune, it’s the sort of supple, luscious red wine that you always hope to find but almost never do,” MacNeil said. “Beautifully savory with notes of red fruits and earth, it’s totally satisfying and, at about $14, a steal, to boot.”
House white wine
“Americans haven’t come to appreciate Portuguese wines well enough to drive up prices,” said Rudy Maxa, host of public television’s Rudy Maxa’s World. He’s a fan of Portugal’s alvarinho white wines and recommended the Nortico label, which can be had for under $15. Bright and light, it is “surprisingly easy to drink,” Maxa said, “with a perfect combination of charm and value.”
Eric Felten is the James Beard Award-winning author of How’s Your Drink?
