When an Armenian acquaintance mentioned that an Armenian restaurant named Lilit Café had opened in Bethesda, I marked it down as a must-go. Rare in Washington, Armenian food is an interesting composite of Greek, Turkish and Persian influences, resulting in sturdy, basic fare replete with grilled meats, flat breads, yogurt, wheat and rice pilafs, and loads of vegetables.
» The food and drink
As it turns out, Lilit Café does not serve Armenian food at all; instead, an Armenian owns the café-as-deli-as-wine bar, and what you find is fine deli fixings turned into sandwiches, paninis, pizzas, salads and, if you drop in early morning, breakfast fare. Oh, and freshly made gelato (cups small $2.50, medium $3, large $3.50) scooped into tubs winks at you as you walk in, and is as seductive as an ice bath in July.
» Breakfast in a deli
Lilit’s Café makes a good case for starting the day off with more than coffee and a doughnut. Although I haven’t tried them — since I was thinking of enjoying an Armenian lunch here — the smoothies ($4.95 each) and the improbable banana splits ($5.50) appeal in their fruity, wholesome goodness. Three of the four smoothies are thickened with yogurt, though the Berry Bliss incorporates lemon gelato, a fine way to get going in the morning. You also get your choice of whole, reduced fat or soy milk.
As for the banana splits, these are not as icky as they sound, for instead of super-fattening, whipped-cream-drenched desserts, these splits are actually glorified bowls of cereal: banana, granola, cottage cheese or yogurt, and cut-up fresh fruit. What could be more nourishing, except maybe a bowl of hot, old-fashioned oatmeal?
» For something heartier …
Why not an egg sandwich ($3.50 each) with your choice of bacon or sausage and cheese, or possibly a Greek or veggie omelet at $5.95 each? It’s not clear whether you can order breakfast all day, but if not, there’s plenty more comfort food on the menu.
» What’s good?
The owner told me that the crab cakes were house favorites. Available as an entrée item or as a house sandwich ($7.99 each), the crab cake, as it turns out, is not particularly firm, and while meaty/crabby, does not have the crispy exterior of a fine-dining cake. As a sandwich, the crab cakes comes atop one slice of bread with a side of shredded cabbage.
Since everything is prepared and cooked to order, use your wait time to sample some of the numerous gelato flavors: lemon, pineapple, green mint, tiramisu, strawberry, and my favorite, crème caramel. Management is quite generous with its samples, so try them all out to find your best taste.
» The last word
Perhaps it lacks the glamour and fire of Thai cooking, but what could be more appealing than a diet of no-frills Armenian food in this health-conscious age? It’s the stuff of Granny’s cooking, but with a different name.
If you go
» Lilit Café
7921 Old Georgetown Rd., Bethesda
Hours: Monday to Thursday, 10 a.m. to 9 a.m.; Friday, Saturday, 10 a.m. to 10 p.m.; Sunday, 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.
