Every Tuesday, master chef Angelo Auriana flies up from Los Angeles to cook a surprise $45 prix fixe dinner at Emporio Rulli Gran Caffe on Chestnut Street. The ever-changing, unannounced, one-day-a-week menu is his whim and an opportunity to taste his refined, playful, swooningly luscious Northern Italian cooking at a great price. Dinner at Valentino in Santa Monica where he heads the kitchen costs twice the amount.
A lot of Italians here — restaurant owners, chefs, waiters, wine people — all seem to know about this culinary windfall. On Tuesday nights, the evocatively frescoed Rulli caffe feels like a piece of Milan.
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