Maryland has had commercial wineries for more than 40 years, but in some ways, the industry as a whole is just gaining momentum.
About four years ago, after extensive lobbying by the Maryland Wineries Association, state lawmakers committed to providing additional support to the industry, which was stagnating with 14 wineries while its neighbor Virginia boasted more than 80.
Maryland provided funds for new ventures, education and promotion, passed winery-friendly legislation and offered the services of state viticulturist, Joseph Fiola, to grape growers.
The investment seems to be paying off.
Maryland now has 34 licensed wineries, with new ones coming aboard each year.
The Maryland Wineries Association is projecting a 20 percent annual growth in the number of wineries and overall sales, said its executive director, Kevin Atticks.
“The growth we’ve been seeing can be attributed to increased promotion that we’re doing, but it’s mostly due to the support we receive from the state,” he said.
Observers report Maryland wines are improving in quality as well.
“The year 2008 is going to be remembered as a turning point year, when we saw it all come together,” said Al Spoler, a Baltimore-based wine critic who organizes the Maryland Governor’s Cup wine competition each year.
Some 40 percent of the wines entered in this year’s contest received gold or silver medals, he said.
“Silver medals matter the most, because that’s an indication of average quality,” he added.
One example of the new breed of Maryland winemaker is Black Ankle Vineyards of Mount Airy, which entered the 2008 Governor’s Cup for the first time and won the grand prize in September with its Crumbling Rock 2006, a cabernet blend.
“Black Ankle is showing the way,” said Spoler.
Rob Deford, owner of Boordy Vineyards in Baltimore County, the oldest and most highly regarded Maryland winery, praised Crumbling Rock as a “really good wine” that deserved the top prize.
He said that while the new wineries coming into Maryland make some of the established winemakers nervous, he believes a robust winemaking community is more effective in lobbying lawmakers and marketing to consumers.
An exceptional 2007 grape harvest bodes well for future wine releases statewide. New promotional initiatives and the “Buy Local, Eat Local” movement are expected to boost sales as well.
“There’s room for growth,” Deford said.
