Once a year I get to write about a remarkable, extravagant wine-oriented opportunity that is completely decadent in nature and frivolous by definition. For example, two years ago, I wrote about an extraordinary dinner I had with Manfred Krankl, the winemaker/owner of Sine Qua Non, and Robert Parker Jr., the renowned wine critic. Last year, I had the good fortune to have the founder and head winemaker of Ravenswood winery, Joel Peterson, and his son to our home for a retrospective tasting of his wines dating back to the early 1980s. Unfortunately, most of the wines we sampled from these two events are not commercially available.
So why write about these one-of-a-kind experiences? I assure you, it is neither to elicit jealousy nor to demonstrate any wine-snob superiority. No, it is, in fact, to illustrate that there is a whole different world that exists in the wine kingdom that many of us never get a chance to experience, except through the occasional bout of journalistic voyeurism. A world that even an envy-bound wine journalist rarely gets a glimpse of.
This year’s remarkable wine adventure started with a phone call from a friend in the industry. He simply asked me, “What are you doing next Wednesday night?” Now, I’ve known this guy long enough that short of my children’s graduation or wedding, I clear my calendar and respond, “Nothin’. Why?” And I’m glad I did. As it turns out, he was hosting a dinner party for Margareth Henriquez, the president and chief executive officer of Krug Champagne, and Francois Mateo, the director of North American distribution, who were visiting the Washington area.
In addition to executives from the Krug Champagne House, there also were several wine industry experts and a couple of dedicated Krug collectors who gathered at Vidalia restaurant to enjoy James Beard Award-winning chef R.J. Cooper’s pairings. The remarkable evening not only showcased the versatility of Champagne itself, but also highlighted the unique style of Krug wines. Krug, founded in 1843 by German immigrant Johann-Joseph Krug, has developed a house “style” that has become synonymous with elegance. Henriquez — the first female to head a major Champagne house in France — intends to make sure that it stays that way. All wines are produced in Reims, France. Retail prices are approximate.
In my humble opinion, the best way to begin any high-falutin’ shindig is with a sparkling rose. But, as legend has it, Krug came very close to not producing a rose Champagne at all. Brothers Henri and Remi Krug believed that rose was a gimmick. But in 1976, encouraged by an exceptional harvest, they secretly made a batch. Then in 1983, the brothers served a glass to their father, Paul Krug II, who had known nothing of the project. One sip later and Krug had its trademark pinkish gold-colored Krug Rose ($300). The wine is a testament to the art of blending. Made from pinot noir, chardonnay and pinot meunier, it is at once both powerful and seductive, with a bouquet boasting of strawberries, ginger and rose petals. The palate is bathed in silky layers of wild berries, white pepper, white figs and a touch of candied ginger. The long, crisp finish is exaggerated by the extremely fine bubbles that carry the wine across the entire palate.
If you are looking for a utility infielder of Champagne, Krug Grande Cuvee ($125) is your wine. It represents the trademark signature style of Krug, with a combination of intensity and charm. The creamy mouthfeel is layered with flavors of crisp green apple, baking spices, nectarine and buttered toast, all delivered on a medium-bodied frame emphasizing the lengthy finish.
The 1995 Krug Clos du Mesnil ($750) is unique since it is the only Krug Champagne to be produced from a single varietal — chardonnay — from a specific vineyard. The tiny four-and-a-half-acre plot, nestled within the village of Mesnil-sur-Oger, is blessed with ideal soil composition and climate conditions that lend it to producing wines of elegance and purity. This wine strikes an ideal balance between fruit and acidity, where the mineral undertones add an extra dimension of depth. The flavors of ripe stone fruit, nougat and sweet citrus literally hang on the palate for over a minute and dazzle the palate. Simply a perfect wine.
1996 Krug Champagne ($300) is a wonderful example of the house style in Krug’s vintage program. Krug blends vinified wines from pinot noir, pinot meunier and chardonnay that emphasize the character of the particular vintage. It is full of toasty, yeasty notes on the fragrant bouquet. The firm texture features crisp flavors of fresh peach, ripe pear, and honeyed lemon rind. A hint of candied ginger lingers on the persistent finish.
As a special treat, one guest brought a bottle of 1985 Krug ($450) from his personal collection. This wine demonstrated how beautifully these Champagnes evolve with extended aging. While it still maintained lovely fruit, more mature flavors of brioche, roasted hazelnut and toffee emerged on the palate. Captivating notes of truffle and caramel crept in on the long, mellow finish. A perfect way to end an exceptional wine experience.
