In the early days of the Gold Rush, people flocked to San Francisco to seek their fortune in gold. It was the gateway city where miners set out with pickax, pan and shovel in hand to stake a claim in the surrounding hills. These days, California is still full of riches, but rather than seeking gold from the mines and streams, collectors come from all over the world to descend upon the rich vine-laden valleys that lie within an easy drive from the City by the Bay.
But just like mining for gold, sometimes finding the real gems in the wine world is tough. It takes patience, practice and a lot of samples. Instead of a pickax and miner’s pan, my tools consist of a corkscrew and a wine glass. Sometimes you get lucky and find a nugget or two early on in the “mining” process. Other times, you come up with fool’s gold for long, long stretches. As the corks and bottles begin to pile up, it becomes harder and harder to believe that you’re going to stumble onto another gem. And then — bam — you find a wine that rewards your efforts and your palate.
Over the course of the last year or so, Cindy and I have tasted many samples. The good news is that many of the wines we liked were affordable — under $50. And we were pleasantly surprised by how many of them were from California — not just Napa Valley, but all over California. From the dramatic cliffs of the Sonoma coast and the Monterey Peninsula to the lovely mist covered hills of the Santa Cruz Mountains, and over to the sun-drenched plains of Lodi, wine gems are waiting to be discovered.
By the way, my nuggets are wines that emphasize balance among fruit, acid and tannins while painting a picture of a “place” on my tongue. I want a sense of where the wine comes from and the grape varietal(s) used to produce it. It should have richness, depth and — above all — charm. If I can find all of that in a wine for less than $50, I consider that a nugget worth mining for.
Here is a list of finds from my most recent mining excursion. Retail prices are approximate.
2007 Carmel Road Winery Chardonnay, Monterey ($15)
These wines are made by Ivan Giotenov, a gentle man with a gentle touch. Ivan takes advantages of the cooling influences of the Monterey Bay to make wine from grapes that taste of crisp apples, pear and white nectarines. He keeps the fruit fresh and bright by blending 20 percent stainless steel fermented juice in with the 80 percent that is aged in oak barrels, which adds a hint of buttery toast and an accent of fresh lemon on the crisp finish.
2006 Michael-David Earthquake Zinfandel, Lodi ($20)
Unbelievable value for such a big zinfandel. The bouquet of black cherry, blueberry and dried herbs leads to a big mouthful of flavor where spicy plum, ripe cherry and hints of sage hang on the palate. The full-bodied finish brings in black pepper and a touch of tobacco for a heady ending.
2005 Taz Vineyards Goat Rock Vineyard Syrah, Santa Barbara ($28)
This wine offers up wonderful aromas of black currants, black olives, ripe cherries and forest undergrowth. Beautiful balance showcases flavors of black plums, cassis, bacon fat and roasted meats. Hints of licorice and black pepper compete nicely on the long, luscious finish.
2004 B Cellars Blend 24, Napa ($38)
I have long been a fan of winemaker Kirk Venge’s father, Nils, so it’s nice to see that the apple fell right next to the proverbial tree. This “Super Tuscan” styled wine is a blend of cabernet sauvignon, merlot, sangiovese and petite sirah and possesses wonderful flavors of bright red cherry, raspberry, dried spices and a touch of saddle leather on the medium-bodied palate. Sweet tannins and bright acidity keep everything in check and provide a lovely finish featuring a hint of smoky cedar.
2005 Stefania Uvas Creek Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, Santa Cruz ($40)
My former editor — who has a great palate and a nose for value — turned me on to this wonderful nugget. This beautifully crafted wine is rich and expansive, offering up generous flavors of mocha, dusty black fruits and black olives on a well-structured frame. Notes of toasty oak and dark chocolate are prominent on the big, long finish.
2006 La Crema Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley, Sonoma ($40)
Pinot noir loves a cool climate, so the coastal fog that rolls into the Russian River Valley in Sonoma provides a perfect home. Loads of seductive dark cherry, pomegranate, raspberry and spice fill the nose and palate. The soft, elegant finish provides just a hint of orange peel and chocolate that lingers on and on. A great value for a classy wine.
