Bordeaux wine can be a funny thing. First of all, when the vintages are great, the wines are amazing. When the vintages are poor, the wines can be unremarkable. But when the vintages are merely good, the wines are often forgotten. And that’s really a shame, since the latter can deliver solid quality at a good price — plus it gives the consumer something to enjoy while waiting for the more monolithic wines from stellar vintages to age.
Wouldn’t it be nice if there were a way to taste through a variety of Bordeaux wines from one vintage to the next at a single session so that one could try samples and compare wines from each region? It would be even better if you had the ability to meet and listen to the winemakers or chateaux representatives to get their perspective. And it would be positively a fantasy if the world’s foremost Bordeaux wine critic were guiding you along.
Welcome to the 10th annual “Heart’s Delight” fundraiser for the American Heart Association — a three-day affair that culminates with a seated tasting of more than 30 Bordeaux wines. This year, the grand tasting was lead by renowned wine critic and publisher of the Wine Advocate, Robert M. Parker Jr. In addition, chateaux owners and winemakers were on hand to discuss their wine as it was presented. Whether you are a veteran wine collector or budding wine enthusiast, it truly does not get much better than this. Best of all, the price of admission goes to a very worthy cause; fighting heart disease and stroke.
This year’s event featured the pleasant 2006 vintage. It is one of those vintages that, as mentioned above, is very good but might be overlooked when compared the remarkable vintage of 2005. As Robert Parker put it, “É the 2006 vintage has produced many fine wines, and overall, it is superior to 2004 É Pomerols [Right Bank] are excellent across the board. É They possess sweet tannin, low acidity, ripe fruit and loads of flesh and charm. They will be gorgeous wines to drink young, but the best of them will age well É The 2006 Medocs [Left Bank] should enjoy 20-35 years of life, but they will be more approachable in their youth. É The wines of Graves and Pomerol should be drinkable at reasonably young ages, but they should keep for two decades or more.”
The fact is this is a very good vintage that is suffering from poor timing and even worse economic conditions. It is possible that wine negociants and retailers will be looking to sell these wines at lower prices in order to make way for the next vintage. With a little research, these wines will represent a good value.
The following is a list of my favorites from the Heart’s Delight tasting, which, by the way, occurs during the first weekend in May each year ( www.heartsdelightwineauction.org). Retail prices are approximate.
The Big Favorites
» 2006 Chateau Palmer, Margaux ($220)
Big tannins support bold flavors of black cherries, plums and currants that glide over the tongue on their way to a powerful-yet-elegant finish. Needs time in the cellar.
» 2006 Chateau Vieux-Chteau Certan, Pomerol ($170)
A pretty wine featuring great balance, nice cherry/berry fruit with nice balance and structure. The generous mouthfeel provides considerable depth to the wonderful, lush finish.
» 2006 Chateau Cos d’Estournel, Saint Estephe ($125)
Excellent structure supports wonderful flavors of blackberry, cassis, pencil lead, black plum and coffee. Trademark notes of curry whisper on the big finish.
» 2006 Chateau Pichon-Longueville Baron, Pauillac ($95)
Prominent scents of red fruit and cedar mingle on the nose while earthy notes of black cherry, dark plum and smoke mingle on the long, pleasant finish.
» 2006 Chateau Coutet, Barsac-Sauternes ($60)
This sweet white wine is elegant and beautiful, featuring integrated flavors of peach, caramel apple, candied orange and white flowers. The long, luscious finish is kept in check by the abundant acidity.
Other Favorites
2006 Chateau Branaire, Saint Julien ($50)
Appealing nose of sage leads to multi-layered flavors of plum, cassis and spice on the palate.
2006 Chteau Beychevelle, Saint Julien ($55)
Flavors of cherries, black raspberries and herbs are delivered by soft/sweet tannins to provide a nice, round mouthfeel.
2006 Chateau d’Issan, Margaux ($50)
Lush flavors of black fruits, earthy spices and graphite coat the palate upfront with notes of smoked meat on the smooth finish.
2006 Chateau Camensac, Haut Medoc ($25)
Sweet tannins buoy flavors of blackberry, plum, and coffee. Notes of orange peel make for a pretty finish. Definitely a good value.
2006 Chateau Chasse-Spleen, Moulis en Medoc ($28)
Wonderful fruit and structure with soft tannins and a pretty finish, this wine is a nice value.
2006 Chateau Corbin, Saint Emilion ($27)
The full-bodied, well-structured frame holds the ample flavors of cherry, cassis and dark plum in check while providing a lush, full finish.
(Editor’s note: Vine Guy Scott Greenberg is founding chairman of the Heart’s Delight Wine Auction.s)
