One of the most maddening wines to fall in love with are the red wines from the Burgundy region of France. Aside from the fact that the proprietary pinot noir grape is a persnickety varietal — thin skinned and temperamental — great vintages in Burgundy are rare enough to be celebrated when they occur. The good news is that the quality of red Burgundies is on the rise thanks, in large part, to the improvement in winemaking techniques and a consolidation of plots in the famed vineyards of the legendary wine region.
Pinot noir originally gained popularity in the Burgundy region sometime around the first century. It originally was thought that Roman conquers brought the noble grape with them during their invasion of Gaul. However, recent evidence suggests the indigenous inhabitants might have already been growing the grape when the Romans arrived.
Either way, the true hero of pinot noir (and chardonnay) in Burgundy was the Catholic Church, whose dedicated Monks spent the next several centuries experimenting with fermentation techniques and storage methods, eventually elevating the wine to legendary status throughout Europe. By the late eighteenth century, the French Revolution changed the face of Burgundy when most of the vineyards were confiscated from the church and divided into tiny, family run parcels.
Today, some plots are no larger than a single row in a vineyard. This fragmentation has led to some of the most confusing regional classifications in the wine world. Because there are so many different soil compositions and so many different owners located in the region, classifications have become much more focused on a particular plot of land than individual chateaux, as is the practice in Bordeaux or the Rhone Valley. In Burgundy, it is a specific sub-region or individual vineyard, not the wine’s producer, which carries a given classification.
The region begins about 160 miles south of Paris, at Dijon, and runs southward another 80 miles, almost to the city of Lyon. Typically, there are four classifications, which range from lowest to highest in quality. They begin with the ordinary Bourgogne, then the value-oriented Village. Next is Premiere Cru (1er), and then finally, the top classification of Grand Cru.
It used to be true that prices for Burgundy wines were directly proportional to their classification, but the gap is narrowing and quality can be found over a large range of prices. There are now more Burgundies more than ever that won’t break the bank as well as special occasion blockbusters. Here are a few of my favorite red Burgundies that run the gamut. Retail prices are approximate.
2006 Joseph Drouhin ‘Laforet’ Bourgogne Pinot Noir, Burgundy, France ($16)
Always a solid pick for value-oriented Burgundy wines from a family who has a long and trusted reputation for producing great wines. This wine is full of fresh, ripe red cherries and strawberries that play over the entire tongue and lead to a wonderfully light and bright finish.
2005 Domaine Bruno Clair Marsannay, Les Vaudenelles, Burgundy, France ($26)
This Domaine is known for producing excellent value-oriented Marsannay wines utilizing a mixture of large old wooden foudres and smaller barriques and a long, slow aging process. It features loads of ripe red cherry fruit with violet notes, all supported by sweet tannins. The medium-bodied finish is pretty and delicious.
2006 Masion Alex Gambal Bourgogne Pinot Noir Les Deux Papis, Burgundy, France ($30)
Ex-pat Alex Gambal traded a career in real estate for a life of wine — and I am glad he did. This lovely Volnay based wine possesses a bouquet of dried red-cherry and pomegranate, leading to lush flavors of red fruit, spice and a touch of smokiness on the persistent finish.
2005 Patrice Rion Savigny Les Beaune, Burgundy France ($40)
This is an excellent choice to begin exploring higher-end Burgundies. The round nose is full of cherry/berry fruit while the palate is super-elegant, featuring fresh cherry and raspberry fruit balanced by superb acidity. Notes of dried spices and truffles join in on the back end, adding depth and intrigue to the medium-bodied finish.
2005 Olivier Leflaive Pommard AC, Burgundy, France ($55)
This wine features classic mineral-laden, rustic flavors of ripe red cherries, raspberries and wild strawberries that are characteristic of wines from the Pommard region. The structure is large with solid tannins and near-perfect acidity. The chocolaty notes on the finish are somewhat atypical but charming on the powerful-yet-elegant finish.
2005 Vincent Girardin Pommard 1er Grands Epenots, Burgundy, France ($85)
This wine is worth the price. The bouquet of ripe black cherries and violets is enchanting. The palate is bathed in waves of rich black cherries, dark strawberries and hints of raspberry liqueur on a perfectly balanced frame. Hints of roasted meat and toasty oak on the expansive finish go a long way to ease the burden of the hefty price tag.
